THE EMERALD RICE TERRACES OF IFUGAO (ifugao tribe)

It was just a short walk from the Rice Homestay in Banaue to the city centre of the town. Dozens of pairs of eyes were looking at me with curiosity. Just before I passed a building of the Immaculate Conception School, I came across a group of Filipno kids, aged 5-11. On the piece of low wall in front of the house, they were doing their school homework. They welcomed me with enthusiastic “Hello”. I could not help but to stop and observe them for a while. With each step I was falling for the smoky and strange atmosphere of this town. I was soaking up the jolly chats and laughters of the kids, the rumble of the graffiti splashed jeepneys, the healing calmness streching and filling the green space. I could not possibly hear any of that on the other Philippines’ islands with such an intensity as in Banaue - Ifugao (Luzon).

Located at the foot of Cordillera mountain range, the Ifugao Rice Terraces (including more than 48 rice terrace clusters) are well known for its striking beauty. It is believed that the rice terraces have been carved mainly by hand the Ifugaos between 1,000 to 2,000 years ago. Thr Ifugao people were not reached out by Spanish and American colonizers because of the difficult terrains they settled in, therefore managed to retain their local traditions and culture.

They are famous for their their woodcarving art (carved bulol - sacred wood rice guardian figures is Philippino icon) and textiles and of course growing the best rice in the whole Philippines. Interestingly, the rice they plant and harvest is only for their own consumption, not for sale.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT PHILIPPINES’ RICE TERRACES?

April to May is probably the best time to visit the Ifugao Rice Terraces (at their greenest). June is the harvest time. At the end of the rice growing season, the Punnuk ritual takes place. All the villagers dress in their traditional clothing and perform rituals.

HOW TO GET TO IFUGAO RICE TERRACES?

Banaue is directly accessible from Manila. Jump on to the night Coda Lines bus at HM Transport Bus Terminal in Quezon City, Manila and arrive to Banaue (Tourist Information Centre) very early morning after approx. 9-10 hours ride. The bus has A/C, toilet and entartainment on board. You can check the timetable and book your tickets online. The other bus company that operates on this route is Ohayami. From the reserach I performed, Coda Lines seems to be a bit better though.

TIP: The bus is a freezer on wheels. Wear warm.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN IFUGAO RICE TERRACES?

You can either organize your time in Ifugao booking a trip/tour guide in Tourist Information Centre or via your accommodation. I have chosen the latter.

Examples of offered packages and tours:

• Tour Package A (1 day tour - Banaue Main Viewpoint and Batad (1 day guide fee, car transport, heritage fee and environmental fee) 3700 PHP

• Tour Package B (2 days - Batad and Tappiyah Falls, Banaue View Point, Hapao Hot Springs) 8500 PHP for 4-8 guests; 6800 PHP for 1-3 guests

• Tour Package C (2 days - Banaue, Batad and Sagada) 9200 PHP for 2-5 people.

• The Heritage Trek (Pula - Cambulo - Batad - Bangaan) - 3 or 2 days

• The Banaue Viewpoint Trek (4 hours)

• Bangaan Rice Terreces & Village Tour

• Batad Full Day Guided Tour (Village, Rice Terraces, Tappiyah Falls)

• Tam-an - Poitan Village Walk

• Hapao Rice Terraces Tour

• Sagada Tour (full day)

Pss. Sagada is famous for its hanging coffins and very popular among the tourists.

WHERE TO STAY IN IFUGAO?

Banaue is a cultural and tourist centre of Ifugao so you will find here many sleeping options. It is pretty basic but you do not come here for a luxurious accommodation, do you?

Rice Homestay - slightly outside of the city and very quiet, is where I stayed myself.

Many tourists decide to stay in a village of Batad to wake up among the lushy rice terraces. Note, it is quite a hike to reach out the accommodation but if you do not mind the inconvenience, that might be the option for you.

Pss. It might not be the most economical option. The prices (accommodation & food) in Batad are substantially higher than in Banaue.

VISITING CEBU ISLAND - MUST SEE & DO LIST

Cebu Island is on the itinerary of most of the tourists traveling to Philippines: countless white-sand beaches, diving paradise, spectatcular waterfalls. The Cebu City in itself is a bustling metropolis. The traffic jam here is not less than the one in Manila. You better stay outside of the city.

• Visit Basilica Minore del Santo Nino & Magellan's Cross - Home of the oldest religious relict in the whole Philippines, an image of the infant Holy Jesus. It dates back to Magellan's time.

• Walk through Carbon Market - Oldest and largest vibrant farmers markets in the Cebu City. Be aware of pickpockets though.

• Take part in Sinulog Festival - Celebrated on the 3rd Sunday of January. The biggest and most popular festival in Philippines.

• Try Lechon - the signature Filipino delicacy - spit-roasted suckling pig) at Rico’s Lechon or House of Lechon

• Go to Malapascua Island - famous for world class diving. You catch a glimpse of thresher sharks. It is a perfect spot for a beach escape too. Recommended diving companies: Divelink Cebu, Evolution Diving, Exotic Divers, Thresher Shark Divers, Fish Buddies.

• Go Canyoning in Kawasan Falls - It is very popular spot so you better head there very early morning. The time filled with loads of fun guaranteed. You cannot leave this place dry.

• Swim with the whale sharks of Oslob - This activity is certainly one of the most popular things to do on the Cebu Island. You line up on the beach with many other tourists willing to pay approx. 1000 PHP to get closer to huge whale sharks. Personally, not the experience I would be seeking myself.

• Go on the Street Food Tour with Backstreet Academy - Experience local dishes that are truly off the beaten track walking through the vibrant and colourful streets of Cebu and eating your way through the Carbon,  Pasil and Colon Streets. My absolute favourites were sweet sausage longganisa and steamed siomai dumplings serves with rice wrapped in banana leaves. Pss. Do not forget to grab refreshing Halo-Halo (frozen delicious thing).

• Eat in Jollybee - the most famous local fast food chain in Philippines. That is why McDonald is struggling in Philippines.

Have you visited Philippines yourself or perhaps you are the local? Comment and recommend your favourite places to check out and things to experience in Cebu, Manila and Ifugao.