ARCTIC DREAMS - WINTER WONDERLAND (LAPLAND)
REAL WINTERs, there were…
The bikini season can wait. It has always been winter I loved more. The sense of pure air, the endless space, big skies and snowbound forests. The crispy cold that moved around gently kissing the rosy cheeks.
I will never forget the overpowering stillness, liberating calmness dominating the space when the winter finally came. Curling up glued to the double glazed windows in the living room, with a glass of hot tea, I was continuously falling in love with the leaf-like patterns painted on the glass by nature. There was nothing more fascinating than the frost of the cold winter nights.
The winter was always bringing the adventure and joy. The smell of piles of burning wood, the roasted sausages, the taste of the tea in the thermos … with a little touch of lemon. It was all so distinct.
With inexhaustible energy rolling around in the snow mountains, and sledging down the nearby hills, we left nothing behind us but the snow angel marks, sledge tracks and the clear sound of laughter. The other days, there were just loud screams, winter war scars and violent outburst of tears, anger, fallen Xmas Tree and broken baubles.
The winter was turning us into little engineers building tirelessly the winter constructions – igloos and snowmen. Frozen snot forming around our noses, white snowflakes sticking to our eyelashes, purple lips, cold hands, it all did not matter at that time.
There was nothing better than the feeling of accomplishment.
Real winters, there were…
Now, when December comes it all looks and feels different.
THE REAL WINTER WONDERLAND - LAPLAND
But in Lapland, there is white and fluffy stuff on the ground for approximately six months of the year. There are snow castles with slides, igloo hotels, ice bars, restaurants and chapels and 200 000 reindeers and a bonus - the man impersonating a Father Christmas/Santa Claus in the company of a few short people who called themselves elves.
Do not get me wrong, there are all nice guys, they smile a lot and run a little business over the Arctic Circle. Scam or not scam, come and shake a hand of the greatest businessman over the Arctic Circle and his court too. But do not expect free selfies. These days even elves needs to be paid. Labour law regulations…
WHICH COUNTRY IS LAPLAND IN? AND WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT LAPLAND?
Lapland covers the northern part of Finland, Sweden, Norway and part of Russia’s Kola Peninsula. The winter offers a number of attractions and activities and is the great time to visit Lapland. The snow usually arrives in late November or December and remains until March. Everyone is the whole world wants to spend Christmas here, but I find early February a perfect time to appear in this magical land.
Typical temperatures in the winter:
December: -20 to -10 degrees Celsius
January: -30 to -15 degrees Celsius
February: -20 to -15 degrees Celsius
March: -15 to -5 degrees Celsius
places to visit & THINGS TO DO IN LAPLAND
The remotest wilderness, the uninhabited areas, frozen lakes hidden away from the men. Vast expanses of the arctic tundra, unspoilt, as they should be. The omnipresent silence seized power here.
In Lapland everything taste and sense different…There are things you can only experience in this Winter Wonderland:
Reindeer Sleight Rides and Farm Visits
Husky Tours and Farm Visits
Snowmobiling
Finnish Sauna Experience
Ice Fishing
Ice Climbing
Skiing
Sami Culture Experience
Aurora Borealis Hunting. Unfortunately, even if you manage to catch the aurora, you will not be transported into a profound state of mind. I was expecting the sky being flushed with vivid streaks and some sort of extraterrestial experience and when the aurora appeared, I was there in - 15 degrees starting at the sky: “So, that is it?”. There is a fainted cloud/strip across the sky but the problem is that your camera can see it better than yourself.
Eat Poronkäristys. This is not a dish for vegans. This is the national dish of Finland, prepared by sautéing reindeer meat. Laplanders have long depended on the reindeer for travel as well as food and in Lapland reindeers are exploited as much as possible.
Rovaniemi (Finland)
The official hometown of so called Santa Claus.
Snowman World Winter Zone It is so much fun! No matter what your age is, you can slide down the hills, go ice skating, drink (here the age actually does matter) and eat in the Ice Restaurant & Bar. The entrance is 30 EUR (ticket is valid for the entire day).
E-Fat Bike Tour This was the highlight of my whole trip in Lapland. It was even better than the husky sledding. Try it out. It is not available in all the Lappish resorts but in Rovaniemi there are many tour operators that specialize in organizing fat biking tours (e.g. Lapland Safaris). The price for approximately 3h experience is 79 EUR (including the gear and a glass of delicious hot chocolate).
Santa Claus Village
This is an exceptional chance to get closer to the Santa Claus himself, sit down next to him, lean forward, just a little bit so you are literally centimeteres away from each other, and then whisper gently to his ear: “You bastard, for Christmas in 1996, you got me an Encyclopaedia, and not the roller skates!”
There are some things money can’t buy, for everything else there’s Master Card. Santa Claus accepts Visa and American Express too. It is free to meet the Santa Claus but everything else will cost you a fortune (e.g. one printed photo of you and Santa Claus - 25 EUR, digital photo package i.e. 2 photos of you and Santa Claus and a short video - 40 EUR. No obligation to purchase anything).
How to get to Santa Claus Village? You can reach the Santa Claus Village easily by local buses i.e. bus number 8 and Santa Express. A return ticket is approximately 5 EUR.
Santa Claus’ Main Post Office. Pop in and send a postcard from the Arctic Circle.
Restaurant Nili. This is probably the best and the most authentic Lappish restaurant in the town.
Kakslauttanen (Finland)
Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort. If you ever dreamed to spend a night in an igloo, this is a good place to do so. The prices might warm you up as in winter start from approximately 550 EUR/night.
KEMI (FINLAND)
The Snow Castle of Kemi
The Icebreaker Cruise - Sampo & Polar Explorer Icebreaker. This was something I was really looking forward to … This approximately 3h cruise might gives you an opportunity to walk on and even swim in the frozen/icy waters of Bothnian sea… with +90 Chinese citiznes who as you decided to go on a little trip to Lapland and everything in the middle of the COVID-19 outbreak … The price starts from 199 EUR. In my humble opinion, a bit overrated or perhaps overpriced. There were no icebergs! But you might love it.
KUKKOLAFORSEN (SWEDEN)
I loved this little Sweddish village that never heard of before, those little red houses and the sound of the water of Torne River and the roaring silence. It was just a short stop. I popped over for a meal. It was divine. But if I only heard about this place before…
KIRUNA (SWEDEN)
It reminds me of some sort of a ghost town. It is only mentioned due to its proximity to the Icehotel and a gateway to Abisko National Park and the fact that there is an airport and train station in the town.
Jukkasjärvi (SWEDEN)
Icehotel & Icebar. This is probably the fanciest hotel I have ever stayed in. It is more than a hotel. It is a work of art! You can choose between the cold hard-carved ice suits (a cosy thermal sleeping bag is provided, but you better grab two) and warm luxurious rooms.
This is the original Ice Hotel that was opened in 1989 and is rebuilt every winter. It is pure magic! You can visit this place even if you are not a guest of the hotel. The entrance is approximately 30 EUR. It is much cheaper than a night in the Icehotel (200 EUR - 760 EUR/night).
There are actually two Icehotels i.e. Icehotel Winter that is opened between December and April and Icehotel 365 that it is opened all year round.
Have you ever had your drink served in an icy glass? I mean a glass made entirely from ice? Smash the drink and the glass!
Husky Dog Sledding. It usually last around 1,5 h. The price is approximately 130 EUR .
Snowmobiling
If you could visit only one place in Lapland, let it be this one.
ABISKO (SWEDEN)
I had to spend 36h traveling from Rovaniemi in Finland to Abisko in Sweden, just to realize that sometimes it is really not about the destination, it is about the journey… Abisko is about 200 km in the Arctic Circle. I think the phenomenon of this little town is owe to the outstanding marketing campaign of one man and a bit to the fact that the Northern Lights can be seen here nearly every clear night. Time quite stops here.
Abisko National Park
Aurora Sky Station
Northern Light Photo Adventures
Despite the price (approximately 155 EUR) and no guarantee whatsoever to see the Northern Lights (you can be literally paying someone to bring you in the middle of nowhere in the middle of night to wait for something that might not come and freeze). But I do recommend this tour anyway e.g. with the Lights over Lapland.
Accommodation - Abisko Mountain Lodge is your best choice. There is very limited accommodation in Abisko so book a lot in advance. Brasserie Fjallkoket in the Hotel is suberb.
HOW TO GET FROM FINNISH LAPLAND TO SWEDISH LAPLAND WITH NO CAR? (my chosen itinerary)
Optimism. Over the years of traveling, I learnt one thing, there is always a way. Sometimes there is not any easy, fast and direct way though.
FROM HELSINKI (FINLAND) TO ROVANIEMI (FINLAND) - OVERNIGHT TRAIN/SHORT FLIGHT
Finish railways VR offer an excellent night train service which is recommended to travel the country from south (Helsinki, Turku, Tampere) to the north (Rovaniemi, Lapland). But I have chosen the early morning 1h20 Norwegian flight and I would do it again.
from Rovaniemi (Finland) to Kemi (Finland) - SHORT TRAIN RIDE
You can find the schedule and book your train tickets from Rovaniemi to Kemi online. Total price approximately 6.60 EUR and travel time approx. 1h20. You better leave Rovaniemi very early in the morning.
from Kemi (Finland) to Tornio/Haparanda (SWEDEN) - SHORT BUS RIDE
Kemi Railway Station is not necesserily a place where you would like to get stuck for extensive period of time. Just a few steps away from the train station, on your right, there is a little bus stop sign from where your bus leaves.
It might not look too appealing and you might wonder whether any bus really stops here, but it does.
The ticket price from Kemi Railway Station to Tornio/Haparanda is approximately 6 EUR. You can book it online at Matkahuolto website. Select as departure "Kemi railway station" and as destination "Haparanda-Tornio. This is not an ordinary bus. You buy a ticket and travel to the future. There is 1h time difference between Finland and Sweden. Do not forget it!
from tornio/haparanda (sweden) to Luleå (Sweden) - long BUS RIDE
Tornio/Haparanda bus station is change to a bus of Länstrafiken Norrbotten in direction of Luleå. The price from Haparanda to Luleå is 20 EUR. You can pay by card. If you are not a local you probably will not buy it online at the Länstrafiken Norrbotten website. But chill, the buses in Lapland are not overcrowded. Your destination is "Luleå Busstation". If you leave Rovaniemi early morning you should reach Lulea late evening, just right for dinner. Stay here overnight.
From Luleå (Sweden) to Abisko (Sweden) - long train ride
Have you realized already that it is the day two of your travel? You can find a schedule and book your tickets from Lulea to Abisko online. If you book early in advance, you will get attractive prices. In winter, there is very limited number of trains so bear it in mind. The latest train leaves at 10 am in the winter! In favourable conditions 6h later you reach Absiko. In less favourable conditions, you receive a text message from SJ AB at the last minute informing you about the significant changes in your journey… train derailment… Your train will not get you to Abisko. There are shuttle buses from Kiruna to Abisko but book in advance. Do not even think about the alternative way… and do not ask about the price of a taxi!
worth to note
Dress warm underneath, preferably in thermal clothing, a warm middle layer, and a hat. Warm shoes, socks and gloves are necessary in Lapland! Overalls are provided as an outer layer free of charge by hotels and tour operators.
You might take with you a few hand and feet warmers.