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A QUICK TRAVEL GUIDE TO CRACOW (KRAKÓW) - THE REAL CAPITAL OF POLAND

Dagmara Jadach

the MAGIC OF KRAKÓW (cracow)

Kraków (Cracow) might no longer be an official capital of Poland, but this royal city teems with treasures and remains the historic and cultural centre of the country. Kraków is full of surprises and epic tales about a poor shoe-maker slaying a dragon, the witty alchemist (Mr. Twardowski) riding around the town on giant cockerel, a devil lurking in the city’s warren of cellars or the hobby horse (Lajkonik) which became a symbol of Kraków.

Every part of the city is fascinating. There is plenty to see and do here. You will be seduced by the majestic cathedrals, castles, trendy charming cafés and buzzing bars alongside centuries-old buildings. It is cheap to eat and even cheaper to drink here.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN KRAKÓW (CRACOW)?

The Main Square

Mornings are the best in the Royal Kraków (Cracow). Take a stroll through Floriańska Street and pause at heart of the city at the Main Square - the largest medieval square in Europe, where at the stroke of every hour, you can listen how a melodious trumpeting (“Hejnał Mariacki”) from St. Mary’s Basilica (“Kościół Mariacki”) echoes throughout the Old Town.

THE CLOTH HALL/THE UNDEGROUND MUSEUM

Grab a bagel (“obwarzanek”) sprinkled with salt or poppy seeds at one of many stands around the Main Square (“Rynek Głowny”) and watch how the city wakes up. Do not forget to say a hello to “Adaś”. Do not ignore him. Young and older Poles usually meet at his feet. The monument of the Polish poet-prophet stands proudly in the middle of the Main Square in front of probably the most recognizable landmark in Kraków (Cracow) - the 14th-century Cloth Hall (“Sukiennice”) where among the multitude of stalls you can find a perfect souvenir and in a hidden a few meters under ground Museum you can learn more about the history of the city.

CHRISTMAS MARKET IN KRAKOW & PIEROGI FEST

In Winter, the Main Square transforms itself into Christmas Market where you can try grilled smoked sheep cheese with cranberry souce or rolled in bacon and many more local delicacies like grilled kaszanka, polish sausage and meat. Yummy. In Summer behind the majestic Mary’s Basicila at the Little Market takes place the annual Pierogi Fest. You can taste the Polish dumplings in all it flavours.

THE WAWEL HILL

Keep walking the Royal Route (through Grodzka Street) passing the 12 apostles standing at the front of Saints Peter and Paul’s Church, towards Wawel Hill which is the home of one of the most visited attractions in the city - Wawel Castle (Royal Castle). When visiting Wawel do not forget to pop into the Wawel cathedral, royal graves and climb on the Sigismund Tower and touch (for luck) the legendary Sigismund (“Zygmunt”) bell, which currently ringing only at the biggest events in the country or in the city. Check out a cave where a Krakow’s dragon once lived and puffed out fire and smoke. Do not worry. The beast is dead but its statute still breathes a real fire.

THE JEWISH DISTRICT (KAZIMIERZ) & podgórze (the schindler’s factory)

Just twenty minutes away from the heart of the city and the Old Town, you can step into a completely different, rough and real world of the Jewish District (Kazimierz) of Kraków to explore its past. Wander around. Do not rush. Once an independent town where the Jewish community thrived, today is the trendiest part of the Kraków city, filled with numerous bohemians cafés and art shops and historic sites, synagogues. A visit in the Jewish District would no be complete without eating “Zapiekanka” at New Square (“Plac Nowy”). The most famous cultural event which takes place here annually in the summer is the Jewish Culture Festival.

Kazimierz was the bustling centre of Jewish life and culture until 1941 when it was destroyed and its inhabitants were removed to the Kraków ghetto, across the river in Podgórze by the Nazis. Currently in the Oscar’s Schindler’s Factory Museum you can find out how the city looked under Nazi occupation during World War II.

THE SALT MINE IN WIELICZKA

Head out of Kraków either by train or bus (no need to book an organized tour) to Wieliczka to discover its mysterious underground musem. Wieliczka Salt Mine is not an ordinary Salt Mine. Once you step into the remarkably beautiful underground Chapel of St. Kinga with chandeliers and statues that were all hewn out of salt, your jaw will drop, literally. Do not even dare to leave Poland without exploring Wieliczka.

HOW TO GET TO WIELICZKA SALT MINE FROM KRAKÓW (CRACOW)?

You can jump on a train at the Kraków Glówny Railway Station. The trains usually leave every 30 minutes and it takes only 20 minutes to get to Wieliczka - Rynek Kopalnia station. The Salt Mine Museum is just 500 meters away. You can simply take a short walk. The price of the train ticket to Wieliczka is 3,50 PLN.

Alternatively hop on the bus line 304 that starts it route from Dworzec Główny Zachód. It takes 30-35 minutesto get to the Salt Mine Museum. You need to purchase the ticket for Zone I + II. The price of the regular ticket is 4 PLN /return ticket 7.60PLN. There are also frequent bus (vans)to Wieliczka so getting there should not be much hassle.

Auschwitz/Birkenau - Nazi Camp

Auschwitz-Birkenau Former German Nazi Concentration and Extermination Camp reveals one of the most infamous period of human kind history and became a symbol of terror and genocide. You will see authentic crematiories, gas chambers, barracks and the gate with an inscription: “Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work sets you free). This in not a tourist attraction. This is a history lesson. The tragic and painful history one that cost over 1 million lives.

HOW TO GET TO AUSCHWITZ/BIRKENAU NAZI CAMP from Kraków (cracow)?

The easiest and most efficient way to get to Auschwitz (which is actually a town located over 60 km from Kraków (Cracow) is to join an organized guided tour. The approximate cost of the tour is 30 EUR. If you want to visit Auschwitz Camp on your own book the Auschwitz shuttle. The return ticket costs 7,5 EUR.

Where to stay in Kraków (cracow)?

Stay in the historic heart of the city. I particularly enjoyed private apartments at Browar Lubicz. Check out Holiday Apartments or Browar Lubicz Aparthotel.

FOOD & DRINKS IN POLAND

Polish nation has more reasons to drink than any other nation. Learn a bit about its history and the you will join and drink with Poles. That is why alcohol in Poland is widely accessible. The average bottle of vodka costs approximately 8 EUR. Home-brew is very popular too. If you do not want to drink, according to the average Pole, there is something wrong with you. It is a part of long term local tradition so carry on and lift your shot glass once again. Cheers (“Na Zdrowie”).

What do they drink in Poland?

Everything in large quantities. Poles know how to make vodka. They love it and they celebrate it passionately. The most widely known Polish Vodka is Bison Grass Vodka “Żubrówka” and “Soplica”. The vodka never goes alone in Poland. It is usually accompanied by pickles, sliced of sourdough bread with lard and onion. There are a lot of flavours of vodka: raspberry, lemon, cherry, hazelnut, walnut, mint, just to name a few.

Stepping inside a Polish liquor store, is an adventure in itself. The wide array of choice will knock you down. If you think Poland make only vodka, you cannot be further from the truth: Polish liquors (“Nalewka”) is sweet alcohol extract made from fruits, spices herbs and flowers. Like vodka, it comes with dozens of flavours. It needs to be sipped and savoured. Mead (“Miód Pitny”) is drinkable honey and is traditional Polish alcohol.

But what Polish food you should try?

Polish Cuisine is not very fit but is certainly delicious and very diversified:

  • Polish dumplings (“Pierogi”) with cheese and potatoes, with cubbage and mushrooms, with meat, cheese only, strawberries, berries etc. The choice is limitless.

  • “Żurek” - soup made from fermented rye flour. Traditionally served in a loaf of bread.

  • Beetroot Soup with Ravioli (“Barszcz z Uszkam”)

  • Cabbage Rolls (“Gołąbki”)

  • Hunter’s Stew (“Bigos”)

  • Schnitzel/ Breaded Pork Cutlet (“Kotel Schabowy”) served with boiled potatoes and cabbage stew.

  • Minced Meat Cutlet (“Kotlet Mielony”)

  • Blood Sausage (“Kaszanka”)

  • Dry Smoked Pork Sausage (“Kabanosy”)

  • Silesian Dumplings (“Kluski Śląskie”)

  • Potato Pankakes (“Placki Ziemniaczane”)

  • “Oscypek” and Bryndza Cheese

  • Donoughts (“Pączki”)

  • Cheescake (“Sernik”)

  • Poppy Seed Cake (“Makowiec”)

  • Apple Pie (“Szarlotka”)

  • Plum Vodka (“Śliwowica”) - Hope you can hold your drink… Śliwowica is a 70% plum vodka.

Where to Eat and Drink in Kraków?

In Kraków, I am happy again.