EATING OUT IN PALERMO - SICILY (ITALY)

VISIT SICILY. WHAT IS SICILY like?

There is only 3 km between the isle of Sicily and the mainland Italy but Sicily is nowhere  near to the rest of the country. Even its inhabitants proudly call themselves “Siciliani” and not “Italiano”. Sicily does not conform to all the conventional standards of the classic beauty.

There are no well-maintained tourist attractions, no pristine streets here. Instead there is an exquisite cuisine, scorching sun, lively and chaotic street markets and people distinctly more relaxed than in any other part of Italy. There is something a bit raw, at times murky but so real and seductively beautiful that the only option you are given to is to succumb to its charms.

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What to do and see in Palermo - the capital of Sicily?

The anarchic capital of Sicily, is probably best to be explored through its vibrant markets - Ballarò, Vucciria, Capo. The beating heart and the soul of Sicily is right here where under the shadow of red umbrellas among the commotion of stalls buried with fresh vegetables, fruit, shellfish, spices, cuts of all sort of meat, cheeses, the Palermo sellers immodestly compete for the attention of the passersby. One can even say that are singing. There is a strange atmosphere of the Arabian souk here, it is kinda feel like being at the market in Morocco. The constantly shifting pictures of the simple daily life, really sinks in. Get yourself a cup of a freshly squeezed lemon juice, or a pani cà meusa. Do not ask what it is made of. Believe me, you really do not want to know…

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SICILY - THE INFLUENCE OF CULTURES

The energetic markets of Palermo, are so characteristic of the city. There are not obviously beautiful but if you try to look a bit under its scruffy surface, you will find out that they represent everything what Palermo and Sicily is - a meeting point of cultures.

Because of the strategic position in the middle of Mediterranean, Sicily lured to its shores an infinite number of invaders. It was once a Greek colony, then the ancient Romans came and stayed for a few centuries, to let in 9th and 10th centuries flourish Sicily under Arab rule. Then in the 11th century, the Normans came. Then Germans, Spanish… the conquers kept on coming and leaving the marks on the land, its architecture style, people and flavours and making Sicily a bit of everything but at the same time shaping it in a very distinctly unique way you have never seen before.

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THE PIAZZA PRETORIA IN PALERMO - “THE FOUNTAIN OF SHAME”

The Piazza Pretoria or as so called the “Fountain of Shame” takes a name of the outrageous amount of money the Palermo Senate had to pay for its purchase. It is said though as well that this is due to the nakedness of the statues. Interesting fact is that the fountain of the naked statues was put just in from of the church … which was inhabited by the cloistered nuns …Just imagine, the only view those nuns had was … right over the fountain of the naked people. The rumour has it, they were sewing the clothes for figures and trying to put them on, one even came in the middle of the night with a hammer and chisel in her hands trying to get rid of the shameful male parts…

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Palermo Cathedral & teatro massimo

The true richness and history of the island is truly reflected in its architectural style. The Palermo Cathedral is one of the most striking in Italy, but for some reason probably the least known. Placed in the exotic - palm filled square, the building is conglomerate of different architectural styles - Norman, Arab, Baroque. You will not find this combination anywhere else in Italy.

If you have seen the very last sequel of the Godfather, the big scene where the daughter - Mary is murdered on the steps of the opera, you might recognize one of the most magnificent buildings in Palermo. This is the Teatro Massimo - one of the largest theatres ever built in Europe. The locals like to come here in the evening, they sit on the stairs and just watch how the life passes by.

Quattro Canti

At the intersection of two most prominent street of Palermo Via Vittorio Emanuele & Via Maqueda, there is a baroque square formed in octagon. It will take your breath away.

DAY TRIPS FROM PALERMO

  • Mondello Beach

  • Cefalù - regarded as one of the Sicily’s most beautiful towns

  • Monreale

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the STREET FOOD IN PALERMO

Eating in Palermo is ridiculously inexpensive. If you want to eat like a local, go and eat street food. Palermo is considered as having one of the best street food in the world and what can I say… Try e.g. “sfincione” - sort of a big fat thick pizza, “arancini” - deep fried rice balls filled with all sorts of stuff and what I believe it is served in heaven “cannoli” - pastries consisting of tube-shaped shells filled with a sweet, creamy filling containing ricotta. You can eat street food in a day and in the evening. You can eat in Palermo all day long and I guarantee you it will be the most divine food you have ever tried in your life. I do highly recommend visiting Vucceria (Fish Market) in the evening. You will smell it from the distance. You can come here with 10 EUR in your pocket, eat like a king/queen and leave with your money still in your pocket. It is a fascinating theatre performance of Sicilian culture and cuisine. You can try here all sorts of things you probably do not typically eat e.g. veal penis, intestines, whatever you dare to eat as nothing is wasted. The food in Sicily is typically fried, greasy and fatty but you do not count calories here.

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PLACES TO EAT IN PALERMO - eat like a local:

  • Ferro di cavallo

  • Osteria rosanera

  • Vespa Cafe - (aperitivo) - Tip: Go for an apperivo plater and drinks - 12 EUR/person and you will not regret it.

  • Nonna Dora

  • Spinnato (breakfast)

  • ke Palle (probably the best arancini in town)

  • Ristorante Primi Piatti

  • Trattoria Carpaccio

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Sicily - the raw Beauty

Have you noticed that I had not mention anything about Sicilian mafia yet? This is because mafia in Sicily is kinda like the character of Batman. Appeared in many movies and became a legend but for some reason nobody has seen him recently in the town.

The more poetic story featuring Sicily, than the “Godfather” itself is only Giuseppe Torantore’s charming tale “Malena” starring Monica Bellucci. This dreamy and poignant image of Sicily is where I first smitten with love for this island, a way before have set a foot on its luscious, gloriously beautiful volcanic soil…