WHAT IS MALTA LIKE?
Thrilling scuba diving, dizzying limestone cliffs, gin-clear water, red-gold beaches, and majestic prehistoric sites. This little island called Malta in the Mediterranean Sea covers the area of only 316 km2 (122 sq. mi) and it is where Paul, St. Paul in the Bible in Acts 28 shipwrecked on it shores. Is located off the cost of Sicily and with its neighbouring sister islands - Gozo & Comino makes it a truly magical place to spend a shorter or longer while and the best part is (almost) nobody has heard of it.
Strolling down the narrow charming streets of the magnificent walled city of Valletta, with the mercilessly scorching sun above my head, could not stop but thinking and gazing admiringly at richly decorated covered wooden balconies that adorned the traditional stone made buildings. In fact my brain sizzled so from the perspective of a complete stranger it must have looked more like bloodshot half unconscious gaze than the act of thinking. But I do not want to be a stickler for detail. You better think of the weather in advance when you come to Malta as it can get really hot in here in the summer.
The Maltese balconies are called gallarija. They come in variety of colours usually matching to the colour of front doors and window shutters. The little balconies’ windows allow the person inside the house to look out onto the street without being seen. Ha!
But that is something else that completely captivated me entirely. The traditional Maltese door knockers are the most unique I have seen in my entire life. They come in a limitless number of shapes, sizes, motifs (fish, sea horses, heads, animal designs) and are made from ceramic, metal or brass. Together with other house features, door knockers took part in symbolising the status and wealth of the family living within the house. I could spend hours wandering the streets in the search of a new extraordinary shape. Well. What can I say? We are all a little weird.
TOP SIGHTS - WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN VALETTA?
I like Valletta for its feeling, the scruffy, neglected, almost ramshackle buildings and its old deep soul. It is seductive. Every corners tells the story. It may be small, but it's full of sights. This magnificent walled city is home to many historic buildings, beautiful gardens, palaces, museums. It is even described as 'one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world'. You can be sure. There is something for everybody here.
Upper Barrakka Gardens & lower barakka gardens
This public garden is a perfect spot to grab a coffee or a cold drink and Maltese pastizzi and admire the stunning panoramic views of the world famous harbour with the 3 cities: Birgu (Vittoriosa), Seneglea and Cospicua. The Lower Barrakka Gardens are less popular but equally charming. Catch it at dusk or dawn or come here anytime. Because why not?
Triton Fountain
It is a great point of reference in case you get lost in the city but the truth is it truly stunning. This is a sight you cannot miss. The fountain consists of three bronze Tritons holding up a large basin. It has been used as a backdrop for a number of concerts and events that were hosted in Valletta. In the evenings it is beautifully illuminated.
Strait Srteet
This is one of the Vallettas’ most iconic street. This is a former “Red Light District” of Valletta. Strait Street was the place to be during the late 19th until mid 20-century where the sailors who were docked in the harbour would come and “indulge in the little joys of life”. Nowadays Strait Street is still very popular with many locals and tourists and filled with restaurants. It is a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine, cocktail or a few.
Fort St. Elmo
St. Elmo fort has been standing guard over the Grand Harbour and Marsamxett Harbour for centuries and nothing has changed. It still stands.
St. John’s Cathedral
It is known as one of the most beautiful co-cathedrals in the world. It houses some of the finest paintings of the 16th and 17th century including Caravaggio’s very own Beheading of St. John the Baptist. The entrance fee is 15 EUR/adult ticket.
Grand Harbour
It is probably one of the finest natural harbours in the Mediterranean. Come and discover why.
3 CITIES, MARSAXLOKK, MDINA AND… WHAT ELSE TO SEE IN MALTA?
Mdina (SO called the “Silent City)
This little charming town was once the capital city of Malta. Mdina enables you to admire the Middle Age architecture in its full glory. It is one of my favourite places on the whole island. There are very few cars allowed to enter the city walls, and if you are not a resident of Mdina, your car will probably not go through. The businesses here have strict noise regulations. After all, the name of the “Silent City” obliges.
If not over 40 degrees heat I could have spent the whole days getting lost in the meander of its cute little streets and continue to discover the shapes of Maltese knockers. If you are not a fan of the knockers, you could visit it within max 2 hours. Come here in the evening. It is a pure magic. All tourists are gone and you can enjoy the dinner and savour the panoramic view at Fontonella Restaurant at ease.
Do not forget to pop into the Palazzo Falson. After a little tour over this medieval townhouse, go up to the very top and grab a bite/something refreshing at the roof coffee shop. The view is simply amazing. If you are the present or the future fan of the series Game of Thrones (which of course you are), you would be very excited to recognize the Mdina Gate and Mesquita Square featured in the Season 1 of the series.
MARSAXLOKK & MARSASKALA (FISHING VILLAGE)
Marsaxlokk is only 10 km from the city of Valletta and you can get here easily by the Bus 81. The town is famous for the Fishing Market that takes place every Sunday from early morning to noon. But do not be mistaken and do not come here on Sunday morning. If you expect the authentic vibe, you might get very disappointed. The market booths and stalls are filled with the pile of made in China multi-coloured knickers and other worthless trinkets that can only ruin your photography set and composition.
Instead, pop in the evening, take a sit at one of the many fish & seafood restaurants and simply soak into and breath in the atmosphere (but do not sniff too much. You know…after all it is a fishing village!), and admire the traditional maltese boats (luzzu) painted in colours of red, blue and yellow with the eyes of the Osiris on the bow. There is no more soul-satisfying sight than that of a dead-calm sea on a clear summer’s day when the Mediterranean is serene, blue and seemingly infinite , beautifully adorned with the luzzu boats moored alongside the pier.
You can also see a similar poetic scene in the beautiful seaside village of Marsaskala.
BLUE GROTTO, POPEYE’S VILLAGE, dingli cliffs and the others
Blue Grotto - This popular site pukes tourists. I will not lie, I am not the big fan of it. It is a complex of seven caves located along the southern coast of the island, less than a kilometre west of Wied iż-Żurrieq and is one of the biggest Maltese tourist attraction. You can see it via local boat trips (8 EUR/adult ticket/ approx. 20 min) and get here via local bus (2 EUR). It’s also an extremely popular diving and snorkelling spot, with very clear waters filled with plethora of loud annoying people. The best time to visit the Blue Grotto is from a very early morning to around midday during the summer months, especially on sunny days, when most of the tourists are not here at least yet...
Popeye’s Village was once the set of Robin William’s musical-comedy Popeye. If you want to have a cool pic with even cooler background, come closer but do not enter. Sometimes to see the real beauty, you need to take a step back (or quite some distance).
Dingli Cliffs. I still cannot unravel the mystery associated with the popularity of this place. There is a little charming church in here which gives a perfect shadow when the weather is sweltering, and where you can wait until the local bus comes to take you back home. You better book a ticket to Ireland and see the Cliffs of Moher instead.
Għajn Tuffieħa Bay is a red beach a short distance south of Golden Bay. Both Ghajn Tufffieha and Gnejna Bay are much quieter than the Golden Bay and often visited by the Maltese themselves. If you want to turn your butt rosy/brown this is a place to lie down and wait until your body turns into your desired shade of red.
what you can do in THREE CITIES - BIRGU (vittoriosa), Seneglea and Cospicua?
Just a look across the Grand Harbour sit Birgu(Vittoriosa), Senglea and Cospicua, known as the Three Cities of Malta. All three cities provide a far more authentic look at ordinary Maltese life. Birgu is the oldest of the Three Cities and at the same time also the most popular town of them due to its historical and cultural wealth. You can visit here Maritime Museum, the Inquisitor’s Palace and of course the Fort St, Angelo. You can easily cross over here from Valletta using a ferry. Due to the excruciating heat, I admired mostly Birgu and this only while moving my wet butt from one air-conditioned bar to another ordering the countless glasses of iced water.
FOOD IN MALTA - WHERE TO EAT IN MALTA?
Traditional Maltese food mixes Sicilian and Middle Eastern flavours, while making use of local ingredients such as rabbit and honey.
There are a couple of specialities you can only try when in Malta:
Honey rings are known best to the Maltese as Qagħaq tal-Għasel. Honey rings can be found in bakeries and supermarkets across Malta. But honestly speaking I liked it more before I put it in my mouth.
The most popular snack in Malta are pastizzi – fluffy pastry formed in specific shapes and stuffed with either ricotta cheese or a paste of peas. You need to try it at least a few times when in Malta.
Kinnie is a soft drink produced only in Malta. It is said you either love it or hate it. I go for the latter. It is definitely not my cup of tea.
Ċisk is the most popular locally brewed beer that is generally liked by foreign beer lovers and I can wholeheartedly confirm it is a good stuff.
Fish, fish and more fish. You’ll be able to find all sorts of local fish served fresh daily in local restaurants, but there are specific types of fish that are traditionally more popular among the Maltese i.e. lampuka or locally caught swordfish.
Cheese. Ġbejniet is a popular choice – it’s a local sheep’s cheese that is often served up as part of a sharing platter.
My favourite places to eat in Malta:
Nenu the Artisan Baker (Valletta)
CAFFE CORDINA (VALlETTA)
L’OSTRICAIO (ST. JULIAN’S)
FONTONELLA TEA GARDEN & FONTONELLA WINE BAR & BISTRO (mdina)
LA NOSTRA PADRONA (MARSAXLOKK)
Ta' Rikardu Restaurant (gozo, victoria/rabat)
is it worth to visit THE ISLAND OF GOZO & COMINO?
My greatest Maltese regret is that I did not spend more time in Gozo. You can easily travel between the Grand Harbour in Valletta to Mgarr in Gozo in less than 45 minutes with Gozo Fast Ferry or take a car ferry from Cirkewwa. Anywhere you go around the island, you are not going to be disappointed. Located in the middle of the island in the city of Victoria (Rabat), there is the Cittadella. Cittadella is rich in buildings of architectural, military and historical value. This place really brings the past to live. It is absolutely worth the visit especially as the dusk falls. At Ta’Rikarduy Restaurant, you can grab probably the best meal of your life. Marsalforn is filled with beautiful restuarants, hotels and snorkelling, while on the southern part of the island, Xlendi, you will find a lot of more diving spots. If you look for a nice place to have a meal just by the water this is a place to go.
Do not miss to visit Xwejni Salt Pans along the coast from Marsalforn. The salt pans are ingrained in the Gozitan tradition of sea salt production, a custom that has been passed down for generations. Ta Cenc Cliffs - probbaly the most underrated cliffs in the world, truly take your breath away. While Ramla l-Hamra is the largest and most popular (red-coloured sandy) beach in Gozo, and this is for a good reason. Unfortunately, the Malta's famous Azure Window rock arch collapsed into the sea in 2017. It is here where the marriage of Daenerys of the House Targaryen, the First of Her Name, The Unburnt, Queen of the Andals, the Rhoynar and the First Men, Queen of Meereen, Khaleesi of the Great Grass Sea, Protector of the Realm, Lady Regent of the Seven Kingdoms, Breaker of Chains and Mother of Dragons and Khal Drogo took place. The movie crew did not clean the wedding venue properly therfore no more Game of Thrones wedding was allowed here.
There is one more attraction you need to add to your bucket list when in Malta. Located on the island of Comino, is one of Malta’s not so hidden gem - Blue Lagoon. It is a known for its crystal clear turquoise blue waters and jagged cliffs, and it is a perfect location not only for swimming, sunbathing but also for photography. You can get here directly from Valletta with a boat cruise or a ferry from Cirkewwa in Malta (13 EUR return) or Mgarr in Gozo (10 EUR return). It is truly heavenly spot epecially at 7 am where you do not need to share it with anyone else. It becomes less heavenly but more inferno over time. Pop in early morning and you will be mesmerized.