The Secret of North Sardinia. why sardinia is the most favourite summer destination?
Sardinia is where the girls dance freely, the blue water is unreal and the world leaders frolic and bath as nature intended. This second-largest island in the Mediterranean (after Sicily) and the place of wonder has been always getting loads of column inches in the magazines and newspapers serving often as the heavenly background for scandals. It is where stretches over 100 hectares of land, a flamboyant Villa Certosa private estate including 4000 seat amphitheatre, Turkish baths, saunas, underground disco, citrus groves, faked volcano…owned by none other than the former Prime Minister of Italy, more famous for cherishing the epicurean lifestyle and raunchy comments than politics - Silvio Berlusconi. Sardinia is the undisputed favourite summer destination among all sorts of celebrities and millionaire/billionaire entrepreneursthat come here to spend a fortune too, turn brown, bask in a little sunshine and roll in the sandy beaches that are dime a dozen here, bringing along paparazzi and interest to the otherwise rather quiet region of Italy.
ALGHERO - the red coral of sardinia
Alghero - a pearl of Sardinia with its main attraction - the 16th Century Old Town, is still surrounded by the original walls and defensive towers. The historic centre is one of the most interesting and fascinating of Sardinia and is filled with old churches, historic buildings, little charming restaurants and cute fashionable shops. The four centuries of Spanish domination left its mark in the local culture, architecture and language and you can still notice it. Walking along the rampart route at the dusk offers unreal coastal views, opportunities for a romantic kiss as well as a vast choice of restaurants where you can stop by and savour the exquisite fresh seafood. The nearby Alghero port is a popular mooring point for millionaires' yachts as well as smaller, regular boats owned by the mortals.
Check out the Ristorante Nautilus and/or Angedras …. Because who would resist the platter of grilled local lobster with baby greens and citrus oil, tagliolini infused with citrus and served with grey mullet roe and creamed “Granglona di Nulvi” pecorino cheese or “Fine de Claire” oysters, tuna tartare, red prawns and mussels…accompanied by a glass of Rose di Alghero or maybe even a bottle? If you wonder where to stay in Alghero, I would go for Hotel Sa Cheya Relais & Spa located in the Alghero suburbs where you can chill out and relax after the adventurous day and immerse yourself in the refreshing waters in the swimming pool. Because we do like spoiling ourselves, don’t we?
BOSA - THE COLOURFUL VILLAGE OF SARDINIA
It's an absolute must to rent a car where in Sardinia, if only for a day, to escape the city and make even the short drive to Capo Caccia or to the south of Alghero to Bosa. Bosa is colourful and stunningly located town flanked by a hilltop castle and cut in two by the River Temo, but in my personal opinion that is almost it…The town does not have much to offer expect its marvellous location. Perfect stopover place where you can snap a picture, grab lunch or snack and head further… Bosa Marina located outside of town has a vast, wide stretch of beach where crowds are uncommon. There are a few beachfront pizzerias and fish restaurants where you can grab a meal or a snack and relax for a while.
CAPO CACCIA - the impressive rock formation in sardinia
You simply cannot miss the imposing rock formation Capo Caccia that is located nearly 30 km from Alghero. This is one of the wildest places in Sardinia. Capo Caccia stands out at 186 m of height over the small bay at the north-western tip of the island. Capo Caccia is renowned for the underground labyrinth of mysterious caves. The most famous one is Grotta di Nettuno (2500 m long) that can be reached by sea or on ground climbing the 656 steps of Escala del Cabirol that lead to the cave.
You can get to Capo Caccia by a car, a bus or a boat. It only takes around 45 min from Alghero to reach out Capo Caccia by car and around 50 min by a bus. But please note that the bus from Alghero to Capo Caccia runs only once per day between October and May at 9:15 am ( 2 EUR) . In the high season the buses run three times a day. There is also an alternative option to get to Capo Caccia by Navisarda boat (Grotto Neptuno) that runs eight times per day always at the full hour. Tickets cost 16 EUR for adults and 8 EUR for kids respectively.
CASTLESARDO - the most beautiful town of sardinia
Imagine the pastel coloured little houses that are stacked tight one next to each other on the hilltop surrounded by the crystal clear blues of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Castelsardo is another fairy-tale destination and well-kept Sardinian secret. There aren’t any specific tourist attractions here as such. One come for the irresistible views, to wander the narrow cobblestoned streets, admire medieval architecture and soaking the rich history of this place. Don’t miss though exploring Doria Castle/Castello dei Doria (The Castle of Sardinians), which stands proudly on top of the old town. Whilst you are there, you can stop by the ‘Elephant Rock’/ Roccia dell’Elefante an interesting 10 m rock formation, that is in the shape of none other than an elephant. Do not expect fireworks. It is just a rock. You can relax on the Spaggia la Marina di Castelsardo. It is a tiny beach on the entrance to the town. You can leave your car nearby. I was lucky enough that visited this place outside of tourist season where it was almost empty. You can eat in a little bar/restaurant at the beach alternatively head to the popular Pizzeria Da Frassau.
If you decide to visit Castelsardo on Holy Monday you will have a unique opportunity to witness a torchlight procession ‘Procession of Lunissanti’ winding down the town’s streets.
COSTA SMERALDA - the luxurious coast of sardinia
Back in 1962 Prince Karim Aga Khan IV discovered the remote and unspoiled coastline in the north-eastern Sardinia, he fell in love with the place and decided to set up a consortium to buy out its parts. Each investor paid approximately US$25,000 for a little piece of heaven, and the coast was christened Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) for its unreal green-blue waters. The goal was to build luxury infrastructure and develop tourism in this area. The plan worked out. These days millionaires/billionaires, oligarchs, politicians, models, royals and (Hollywood) stars such as George Clooney, Bradley Cooper and Elton John are drawn to the Costa Smeralda by its five-star hotels, its dining scene and the spellbinding natural beauty. This is by far the most luxurious, beautiful and expensive part of Sardinia. But do not worry, mortals do come here too.
WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN THE COSTA SMERALDA?
The capital of the Costa Smeralda is Porto Cervo, a somewhat artificial luxurious resort filled with chic restaurants, bars, designer boutiques like Prada, Gucci etc and the marina where the super-yachts of the rich and famous moor. The marina in Porto Cervo is best equipped of all Sardinia and can accommodate the biggest yachts and sailboats. The 2 main commercial streets of Porto Cervo is la Sottopiazza and la Passeggiata.
If you ask me, I have not seen the alleged splendour and magnificence of the town anywhere. I was only shocked with the standard and the price of the hotels in the area. It seems like Sardinians introduced their own star rating system... What is a 4 star or 5 star hotel in Sardinia might cost like it is more than that but in reality sadly does not reflect it. But gladly I have been spending my evenings in the family run Restaurnat Hivaoa serving the exquisite Italian cuisine and playing the best of 80s hits and I tell you it was the highlight of the town. It is open 24/7. Porto Rotondo, a second marina developed in 1963, attracts plenty of paparazzi and it is because it is where the (in)famous Italian Prime Minister hosted the parties and welcomed the prominent guests. The town has also a very attractive seafront promenade.
Inland from the Costa Smeralda, the mountain communities of San Pantaleo and Arzachena offer something more real and authentic than just the coastline's glitz and glamour. You should visit San Pantaleo Thursday market, located in the traditional little village of the same name. It’s located about 15 km away from Porto Cervo. If you come to the Thursday market, you will find here all sorts of hand-made items - jewellery, paintings, sculptures, bags, clothes, fruits, cheese, meat, nougats etc. It is a very lively and popular and highly recommend to visit it. If you come outside of the market day, you can stroll around the main square, admire the church and walk in the peaceful streets.
Without a doubt, the biggest attraction of Costa Smeralda is the spellbinding nature, views, and pristine beaches. It is what everyone comes here for. Here you find probably the best beaches in the whole Italy if not in Europe. Roasting on the beach is probably not my favourite thing to do but even myself was impressed by the beaches of Sardinia, just to name the few: Spiaggia del Principe, Liscia Ruja, Rena Bianca, Piccolo Pevero, Cala Granu. Perfect spot for the lazy vacation if you expect good quality food, sunshine and fantastic beach.
HOW TO GET TO COSTA SMERALDA?
If you wonder how get to Costa Smeralda, it all depends on your starting point. Flying to Olbia (but not staying in the city) is the best option. Then, it is just quite short 40 min drive. You can also fly to Alghero and drive 2h 15 min by car or from Cagliari 3h 30 min by car. One is sure, you need to rent a car when in Sardinia. It will make your life and tour much easier and enables you to explore a lot more if you relied on rather not reliable and limited public transportation offer in Sardinia.
LA MADDALENA ARCHIPELAGO
This is probably the most beautiful and unspoilt part of Sardinia. Just a short ferry 20 min ride from Palau (The average cost of a ferry is 20 euro for a vehicle and two passengers) and you are in peaceful island of La Maddalena, the main island of this small archipelago of the same name located between Sardinia and Corsica. You can find here some of the most spectacular beaches and some of the clearest waters in Italy.
La Maddalena archipelago consists of seven islands (La Maddalena, Caprera, Budelli, Santo Stefano, Santa Maria, Spargi, Razzoli) and other smaller islets and some 300 white-sand beaches surrounded by translucent turquoise-green waters. The sole town on the main La Maddalena island is a pretty, lively port with bars, cafés, restaurants. The wild island of Caprera, the second biggest and most popular within the archipelago is connected to the main island by a bridge and a causeway. On your arrival here, visit the house and museum of Garibaldi.
You will certainly need to take a boat to reach the archipelago's sacred gems e.g. the "pink beach" and Budelli Island, that owes its characteristic colour to the plethora of skeletons of tiny animals brought to its shores by the current.
Maddalena Archipelago is truly an ideal destination for boat excursions, scuba-diving under the emerald and turquoise waters and certainly to enjoy one of its spectacular beaches (e.g. Cala Coticciu, Brigantina and Portese on Caprera; Cala Corsara and Cala Granara on Spargi; and Cala Lunga on Razzoli). Not a place to spend only a day but a few.
