Asia

A CITY WHERE EVERYTHING HAS A MEANING AND TAKES ON A NEW MEANING (NEPAL)

Kathmandu – From the very beginning the city keeps surprising. Ever changing scenes, people, expressions, noises, colours, the fascinating rituals. You go through a narrow street and suddenly it opens up to the majestic jaw dropping view. The hidden spellbounding courtyards, the shabby nooks that offers the best street food you can imagine. For the authentic experience, book a secret food tour: exposing the locals’ best hideouts with the Backstreet Academy. Just wander around the Durbar Square or Boudhanah Stupa and experience what Kathmandu has to offer.

The magnificent architecture, temples, the images of cheerful kids running around the square and chasing pigeons, the sound of bells, monkeys climbing the stupa dome. Kathmandu is also a residence of the living goddess Kumari. In Nepal, a Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl selected from the clan of the Nepalese Newari community and is believed to be the incarnation of Taleju. She lives in the Kumari Ghar - a palace in the centre of the city (Kathamndu Durbar Square).

This is a place so captivating in every sense. Pashupatinath Temple is one of the most important religious sites for devotees of Shiva. You can see and smell death, literally. On raised along the Bagmati River platforms, cremation of Hindus take place. At the same time, the temples scuplures show the hindu gods and goddesses in the act of love. Unconventional combinations and constant movement. Here everything has a meaning and takes on a new meaning.

KATHMANDU - THE FASCINATING CAPITAL OF BEAUTY AND CHAOS (NEPAL)

KATHMANDU - THE BEAUTY OF CHAOS

My dad knew Nepal only from books written by Krzysztof Wielicki (Polish alpine and high attitude climber - the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and was the first ever to climb Mount Everest in winter) but I knew that for me that would not be enough…

The country’s only international airport is Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) which means that your first stop in Nepal, whether you want or not, is Kathmandu. On a side note, TIA is one of the riskiest airports in the world and was ranked the second worst airport in Asia. The capital of the supposedly pristine mountain nation of Nepal is actually ranked the second most polluted city in the world too. I know, it does not sound like a good beginning…

Kathmandu is manic & congested. Dust floating in the air and everywhere motorcycles. Thousands of them. It can be quite exhausting. But the city is in itself is endlessly fascinating. Just around the corner, in the courtyard, you can soak up the history and magic of the city. Stepping into Kathmandu gives you an opportunity to travel back in time. The hidden medieval temples, the majestic Durbar Sq. and the surrounding backstreets, the sounds, smells, the taste of the steamed momos, the infiltrating spirituality, it all makes Kathmandu the most enchanting places on the planet Earth that is absolutely worth taking the risk.

FENGHUANG - THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TOWN IN CHINA?

FENGHUANG - ANCIENT TOWN - CHINA - PHOTO GALLERY

The dozens of slanted eyes stare at you. The words are like the endless gibberish. You wonder, is that you who are in an advanced state of inebriation or them. You speak clearly and cohesively. It must be them. You get on a coach in Huaihua (West Bust Station), heading to a place you hope is Fenghuang (The ancient town of the Phoenix). You hope. You have no certainty. There is only one English speaking person in the coach (not even fluently) and that is actually you.

China is much more than Beijing, Shanghai & Xi’an. China is much more than being vast, overpopulated communist country, it is more than just “Made in China”, the Great Wall, and the Tiananmen Square. It deserves to be fully explored even at the cost of the constant feeling of confusion, disorientation & communication hurdles.

1. China Fenghuang Ancient City Tuo Jiang River.JPG

Fenghuang is situated on the western boundary of Hunan Province, is regarded as the most beautiful town in China. It is widely popular among Chinese but usually neglected by foreign tourists. The Tuo Jiang River is a life-force of the town. You can observe here women washing the clothes in its waters and men fishing with their nets. At the centre of the town there is two stepping stone bridge connecting the two sides of the river. Taking a boat is a good way to get closer to the local life so do not miss this chance. The ancient city is also a gathering place for Miao and Tujia ethnic minorities. They are easily recognized. The Miao women wear traditional blue garments sets, complex necklaces, bracelets, earnings and headdresses.

China Fenghuang Ancient Town Street.JPG
5. China Fenghuang Ancient Town Chinese Woman.jpg

Fenghuang was built in 1704 and is still being kept in its original appearance despite the fact that more than 300 years passed. The sights of this riverside settlement, the rickety wooden houses on the stilts and narrow stone roads transport you back to the times of the Old China. This is a true gem that should be put on your list when travelling to China. Although, at nights the town transforms itself into the Chinese version of some sort of Las Vegas (due to illuminations), it does not stop to amaze anyone who sets foot here.

How to get to Fenghuang?

  • Coach from Huaihua West Bus Station (1h). Coaches set off every 2h from 7:30 am to 4:30 pm approx. 40 RMB.

  • Coach from Zhangjaijie Bus Station (near Zhangjaijie Train Station) There are only 2-3 coaches per day. The advance reservation is recommended. Ask your hotel for the assistance. Approx. 80 RMB.

The best time to visit?

Spring or Autumn. The period from April to June is the rainy season.

7. China Fenghuang Ancient Town Tuo Jiang River.JPG

The top attractions of the Ancient Town:

Southern Great Wall; East Gate Tower; Hong Bridge; Yang Family Ancestral Hall; Gucheng Museum; Queen of Heaven Temple.

Accommodation:

You can stay in one of the many hotels in the Old Town. I stayed slightly outside in Yinji Inn = 2 nights in a double room with a common terrace with a view over the Ancient Town and Chinese breakfast (soup) = 476 RMB = approx. 60 EUR.

prices:

Since April 2016 the entrance fee to the Ancient Town (but including the entrance to 9 sites) of 148 RMB has been cancelled. You will only need to buy a ticket when visiting the scenic spots inside the town.