Le Mont Saint Michel

LE MONT ST. MICHEL (FRANCE) - PRACTICAL TIPS & ADVICE

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT?

The fairytale complex of Mont Saint-Michel (MSM) can be visited all year round. However, from March to October the weather is in its best. In peak season – July and August expect to face a human traffic jam and I really mean it. MSM has only one street. If you would like to see MSM fully surrounded by water (which is a real treat) check the times of the tides before planning your visit. It is highly recommended to arrive in MSM late afternoon and stay overnight on the island or on a bit cheaper but still expensive mainland. Around 6 pm all the tour buses leave, and the crowds slowly disappear, until approx. 10 am of the very next day when the hordes of noisy and constantly hungry and thirsty tourists are back in town.

HOW TO GET THERE?

You can pick and choose. There is a wide array of transportation options:

  • Fly to Rennes Airport (75 kms from MSM) or one of the Paris Airports (Roissy-Charles de Gaulle or Orly)

  • Hop on a bus from Paris: (4h30)

  • Take a train:

    a) From Paris Montparnasse to Villedieu les Poêles (2h50)and connecting bus (high comfort) to MSM (50min).

    b) From Paris Montparnasse TGV to Rennes (2h00). Connection by train TER from Rennes to Pontorson and after bus to MSM or direct bus from Rennes to MSM.

    c) From Paris Montparnasse TGV to Dol de Bretagne (2h40) and direct connection from Dol de Bretagne by bus to MSM

  • Get into your car and simply drive. Parking lot is located on the mainland 2.5 km from MSM. Free shuttle buses drop visitors off 400 meters from the entrance gates.

DO & DON’TS

1. Climb the 350 steps (no elevator nor escalator is available) and visit MSM Abbey.

2. Cross the bay of MSM and get muddy. The walk across the Bay is only allowed in company of certified guides (Crossing is only available when the tide is low). Book the guide in advance. The bay is very dangerous and known for its quicksands. Each year, at least three people become statistics, often by miscalculating the time necessary to return to MSM from the neighbouring island (Ile de la Tremlaye). Do not become a statistic. The tide is said to come in as fast as a galloping horse and it really does. Depends on the route it takes 4-6 h to cross the Bay.

3. Do not be bonkers. La Mère Poulard and its culinary speciality: super fluffy omelette cooked on a wood fire is not even recommended by locals. La Mère Poulard omelette is currently rather famous for its shocking price: 34-38 EUR (and it is not made of golden eggs) rather than the exquisite taste.

PRICES:

a) Visiting the island is free but the entrance fee to Mont Saint-Michael Abbey is 10 EUR per person unless you are under 26 yrs (for european citizens) and under 18 yrs (for other nationalities). The youth has more pros. You pay nothing. Tip: Book your tickets online and enter the Abbey skipping the lines, save your time and do not let the awful queues and crowds to spoil your experience. Download your tickets to your phone as the internet connection is very weak in MSM. (use Tiqets app).

b) Accommodation (for 1 person) in MSM is outrageous (e.g. 1 night in Mercure Hotel on mainland = 151.10 EUR + 15 EUR breakfast option). The further you stay from MSM the cheaper it is. The price for two people is 5 EUR higher so take a companion. Book your accommodation a lot in advance too. Surprisngly, there is a plethora of people willing to pay even more.

c) Guided crossing of the Bay - approx. 10 – 15 EUR for adults and 5 - 6 EUR for kids.

d) Food and Drinks – depends on your appetite. Highly recommended La Sirene. From a friendly service, great food and low price everything was perfect. For a moment I was even wondering if am actually in France. The price range of la crêpe is 2.40 EUR – 10.10 EUR. Crepe with smoked salmon, grated cheese, mushrooms, cream, chives – 8.90 EUR; Breton cider (20 ml): 2.70 EUR. Ranked high is also Restaurant La Ferme Saint Michel located on the mainland, near the parking lot.

e) Transportation: Bus from MSM to Rennes - 15 EUR, Train & bus from Paris Montparnasse to MSM - 27 EUR. Simple rule: the earlier you book your train, the less you pay.

WEEKEND INSPIRATIONS - LE MONT ST. MICHEL (FRANCE)

HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE IN FRANCE?

The scent of free floating omnipresent arrogance and the sound of reverberating superior silence. This is how it feels to be in France [read: do not expect overfriendliness]. But there is one place in this country that has ability to transport you to a completely different dimension. Rising dramatically but proudly from the sea or towering over the sands unveiled by the receding tide, insanely looking Le Mont Saint Michel.

THE MEDIEVAL CITY ON THE ROCKS

This rocky island or rather a medieval city on the rock is located off the coast of Normandy. More often than not, this place is actually abominably jammed (stormed every year by approx. 2,5 millions visitors) and its medieval stone, wobbly alleys and pathways are covered with trinkets. But as dusk falls, Le Mont restores its magic, charm ad intimate vibe.

WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT LE MONT SAINT MICHEL?

What actually makes this place so phenomenal is the fact that the bay around Mont St-Michel has Europe’s highest tidal variations. There can be a difference of 15 meters (50 feet) between low and high tide. The Mont is only completely surrounded by the sea every month or two [in 2018 - 18 days].

There is also a “divine factor” associated with this place. Legend has it, the Archangel Michel appeared to St. Aubert telling him to build a church on Mont Saint-Michel and the 11th century Romanesque Abbey Church perched at the top of Mont, along with monastery, building and cloisters is now like a cherry on the cake.

To truly appreciate Le Mont St-Michel, come here off-season and stay overnight on the island in one of the hotels inside the walls or in the village outside the walls. (Warning: It is really not cheap but totally worth it). Do not be a tourist, do not tick off another box, take your time and contemplate this place.