THE UPPER MUSTANG TREK - TREKKING IN THE LAST FORBIDDEN KINGDOM (NEPAL)

THE UPPER MUSTANG TREK IN NEPAL

Every year Nepal attracts more than 200,000 trekkers. Only approximately 4,300 out of them choose to discover the “Upper Mustang” region – a treeless and barren last bastion of Tibetan culture. Until 1950 the area of Mustang was actually a separate Kingdom. This place was opened to non-Nepali travels only in 1991, but still even today the entry to the Upper Mustang is highly limited.

The trekking in the Upper Mustang is completely different than trekking in other parts of the Nepal. It is a real privilege, the privilege that comes with a price (a dear price). Mustang trek is some kind of similar to the trekking in Tibet. Obtaining the Trekking Permit to the Upper Mustang enables you to experience a semi-arid desert, admire colourful rock formations and snow-capped peaks but mostly get closer to the rich culture of the local people. You will cross beautiful valleys and small town like Jomsom, Kagbeni.

A monk student from the Red Monastery in Kagbeni in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

A young girl working in a restaurant near Choser Cave in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

THE UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING COSTS

• Trekkers need obtain a costly Trekking Permit = 500 USD valid for 10 days /50 USD for any extra day/person.

• On top of this, as you enter Annapurna restricted area, you are also required to get the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit = 30 USD/person.

• You must be accompanied by a professional tour guide/porter (of an authorized travel agency of Nepal) = approx. 1220 USD/person/ 10 days (including accommodation, food, guide services)

• Minimum of 2 trekkers is mandatory. Individual trekkers are not allowed in the region.

• Pokhara - Jomsom - Pokhara Flight = 220 USD/person

• Pokhara - Kathamndu Flight Cost = 110 USD/person

Personally, I trusted Global Holiday Adventures Pvt. Ltd. and let them sort out the organization of my trek. They offer Jeep Adventure and Trekking in the Upper Mustang. The price for my package cost me approx. 2050 USD (including flights, jeep ride, accommodation, food etc.)

example: THE UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ITINERARY:

Day 1 - Fly/Drive (by bus) to Pokhara from Kathamndu

Day 2 - Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom (2720m) and trek to Kagbeni (2800m) 3-4h

Day 3 - Trek from Kagbeni to Chele (3000m) 5-6h

Day 4 - Trek from Chele to Ghiling (3570m) 6-7h via Chuksi Cave

Day 5 - Trek from Ghiling to Drakmar (3450m) 5-6h

Day 6 - Trek from Drakmar to Lo-Manthang (3840m) 7-8h via Ghar Gompa and Marang-La Pass

Day 7 - Explore Lo-Manthang “The Wall City” (Visit 3 monasteries (Jampa Gompa, Chodey Gompa and Thubchen Gompa)

Day 8 - Visit Choser Cave and Monasteries by horse riding and back to Lo Manthang

Day 9 - Drive back to Jomsom from Lo Manthang by Local Jeep

Day 10 - Fly to Pokhara

THE RED MONASTERY IN KAGBENI

Entering Kagbeni – a unique medieval village, you are steeping into this undisturbed Tibetan Buddhist world with ancient monasteries and traditional villages. This is a gataway to the Upper Mustang.

The Red Monastery that was built in 1429 is the most famous landmark here (a small entrance fee – 200 NRP – approx. 2 USD applies). You can wander through the cobbled streets and watch the locals do their chores, kids coming back from school and little monks running around and playing with “syringe guns” (filled with water).

A young girl helping in the Red Monastery in Kagbeni in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

Monk students at the Red Monastery in Kagbeni, in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

What to expect in the Upper Mustang?

The maximum point reached during the trek is approx. 4000 meters but the conditions are quite difficult. Mustang is very cold in autumn and winter and is constantly windy and dusty (really dusty) regardless of the season. Therefore most of the tourist choose to discover this region by a jeep or motorbike and this is a quite an off road experience must say with the difference that you actually drive on the road. At some points you might feel like driving on the edge of life and death.

Pss. When trekking in the Upper Mustang, take with you an extra warm sleeping bag, trekking sticks, some toiletries, Diamox (high attitude sickness preventative medicine) and some of your favourite snacks (e.g. chocolate). There is a very limited offer of the “western” snacks that you can buy in the guest houses (they will not be cheap too) but might want to check the “expiration” date before you finalize the purchase. Some of the “Snickers” can be sold despite the fact that “best before” date passed two years ago.

But do not worry. There is no problem with food. Your guide will sort it out for you. It is delicious. Make sure you try some Tibetan bread, Tibetan noodles but under no circumstances try any meat dishes here unless you want to get seriously sick. You become a temporary vegetarian, if you want it or not. The Upper Mustang is also very famous for delicious, fresh, and juicy organic apples. Do not forget to try the apple pancakes in Jomsom. I loved the ginger honey tea when trekking in the Upper Mustang, it kept me warm.

Kids from the village Ghami in the Upper Mustang, Nepal. The kids are eating sweet rice.

Kids from Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT THE UPPER MUSTANG?

The Upper Mustang is most recommended to be visited in spring or summer season (May – August). I made a mistake heading there at the beginning of November with -11 C already in the night.

There is no heating in the guest houses as such.

Reason?

Simple.

No Trees = No Wood = No Heating = Freezing to Death.

Ok. I might exaggerated things a bit. But even the residents and monks of Lo-Manthang leave the capital to avoid the freezing temperature and snow in winter. However, the locals always make sure that there is at least some dry yak poo to boil water for tea or make dinner. For food lovers: you will not die here from hunger. The food is really divine.

Daily life in the centre of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

The Walled City of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

what to see and do in LO-MANTHANG - THE WALLED CITY?

The capital of the Upper Mustang is the walled city of Lo-Manthang. Monasteries are a vital part of daily life in this place. In Lo-Manthang there are 3 old dauntlessly beautiful monasteries and I really mean it. You need to pay the entrance fee of 1000 NRP (approx. 10 USD).

The most celebrated and highly popular festival in the region called Tiji Festival is a three day event characterized by the dancing of monks to commemorate the incarnation of Buddha. Many people come to Lo-Manthang just to observe the Tiji celebrations.

There are some half-days tours organized outside of the Lo-Manthand where you can visit Choser Cave and nearby Monasteries. You can either go by jeep or horse riding. I do recommend the latter. You pay for yourself and your guide.

The “city” is focused much on the “wealthy tourists” that come to the Upper Mustang therefore, you can even come across shops, especially with local paintings and craft, that offer payment by credit card.

A CITY WHERE EVERYTHING HAS A MEANING AND TAKES ON A NEW MEANING (NEPAL)

Kathmandu – From the very beginning the city keeps surprising. Ever changing scenes, people, expressions, noises, colours, the fascinating rituals. You go through a narrow street and suddenly it opens up to the majestic jaw dropping view. The hidden spellbounding courtyards, the shabby nooks that offers the best street food you can imagine. For the authentic experience, book a secret food tour: exposing the locals’ best hideouts with the Backstreet Academy. Just wander around the Durbar Square or Boudhanah Stupa and experience what Kathmandu has to offer.

The magnificent architecture, temples, the images of cheerful kids running around the square and chasing pigeons, the sound of bells, monkeys climbing the stupa dome. Kathmandu is also a residence of the living goddess Kumari. In Nepal, a Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl selected from the clan of the Nepalese Newari community and is believed to be the incarnation of Taleju. She lives in the Kumari Ghar - a palace in the centre of the city (Kathamndu Durbar Square).

This is a place so captivating in every sense. Pashupatinath Temple is one of the most important religious sites for devotees of Shiva. You can see and smell death, literally. On raised along the Bagmati River platforms, cremation of Hindus take place. At the same time, the temples scuplures show the hindu gods and goddesses in the act of love. Unconventional combinations and constant movement. Here everything has a meaning and takes on a new meaning.

KATHMANDU - THE FASCINATING CAPITAL OF BEAUTY AND CHAOS (NEPAL)

KATHMANDU - THE BEAUTY OF CHAOS

My dad knew Nepal only from books written by Krzysztof Wielicki (Polish alpine and high attitude climber - the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and was the first ever to climb Mount Everest in winter) but I knew that for me that would not be enough…

The country’s only international airport is Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) which means that your first stop in Nepal, whether you want or not, is Kathmandu. On a side note, TIA is one of the riskiest airports in the world and was ranked the second worst airport in Asia. The capital of the supposedly pristine mountain nation of Nepal is actually ranked the second most polluted city in the world too. I know, it does not sound like a good beginning…

Kathmandu is manic & congested. Dust floating in the air and everywhere motorcycles. Thousands of them. It can be quite exhausting. But the city is in itself is endlessly fascinating. Just around the corner, in the courtyard, you can soak up the history and magic of the city. Stepping into Kathmandu gives you an opportunity to travel back in time. The hidden medieval temples, the majestic Durbar Sq. and the surrounding backstreets, the sounds, smells, the taste of the steamed momos, the infiltrating spirituality, it all makes Kathmandu the most enchanting places on the planet Earth that is absolutely worth taking the risk.

KNOCK ON HEAVEN'S DOORS - THE TIANMEN MOUNTAIN (CHINA)

Tianmen Mountain in Zhangjiajie in China - The Gate to Heaven

The Tianmen Mountain (National Park) is located in Hunan Province in China. The mountains in this region are known for its steep peaks and spectacular rock formations covered in deep green vegetation.

Tianmen Mountain Road & Tianmen Cable Car

Tianmen in Chinese literally means “sky gate” and this is due to its famous cave that looks like a way up to the heaven. It was formed naturally as a result of soil erosion. The mountain is best reached by cable car - the longest in the world (takes about 30 minutes to go up). To get to the cave you can either take an escalator or climb 999 steps (hence the name Stairway to Heaven).

The Perfect Flight through the Tianmen Mountain in China

In 2011 Jeb Corliss – the wingsuit pilot jumped out of a helicopter and glided through a 30 m wide Tianmen Cave. The video of his flight is simply jaw-dropping and quite inspirational so do recommend to watch. If you do not own a wingsuit, you can go down from the mountain by bus over the road “Avenue Leading to the Sky” with the famous 99 sharp bends. This is absolutelely spectacular and mystical experience especially in a foggy evening.

The red ribbons around the Tianmen Mountain

The red ribbons that are hung around the Mountain symbolizes wishes. It is believed that tying a red ribbon to the “wishing tree” will make the wish come true. The higher the ribbon is tied, the more likely it is that the wish will come true. Chinese dragons are powerful symbols too, they represent strenght and good luck. The Mountain in itself is believed to have magical powers, it is even called by the locals the “magic mountain of western Hunan.”

When it is the best time to visit the Tianmen Mountain?

It is best to be visited between September and October when the temperatures are pleasant. The entrance fee 258 CNY, includes a single journey on the Tianmen Cableway, the shuttle bus, and the escalator to Tianmen Cave.

HUANGLUO - YAO LONG HAIR VILLAGE (CHINA)

YAO ETHNIC GROUP in china

Located in the Longji Rice Terrace Scenic area of Guilin, Huangluo village is inhabited by Yao people. The Yao ethnic group has a history of over 1000 years. The village has become very popular during the last years and all this due to the women. The women here are characterized by their red embroidered dresses and their long hair that happen to reach the average length of 1,7m, just average. The women of Huangluo village can only cut their hair once, when they turn 18 as a part of a coming of age ceremony which means that the girl is ready to get married.

A woman from Huangluo village in China

THE LONG TRADITIONS OF YAO long hair WOMEN

Till 1987 only the man who would become a husband of the woman had the privilege to see her hair in all its beauty. If it happened that poor local or a foreigner stumbled upon a woman with her hair revealed, he was forced to spend 3 years with her family as a son-in-law. Nowadays, sadly (maybe not for everyone though), all those traditions are abandoned.

Some women in the village work as performers, putting on show what once was such a privilege to see, they sign and dance too and all for money and for tourists coming to the area. But still they cultivate some of the traditions. The hair is the most prized possession for them. Long hair stands for longevity and fortune.

The young unmarried women wear their hair bound and covered by a black scarf. A married woman who doesn’t have children wear her hair down in two braids, while a married woman who has children carry her hair wrapped around her head like a turban curled into a bun in the front.

FENGHUANG - THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TOWN IN CHINA?

FENGHUANG - ANCIENT TOWN - CHINA - PHOTO GALLERY

The dozens of slanted eyes stare at you. The words are like the endless gibberish. You wonder, is that you who are in an advanced state of inebriation or them. You speak clearly and cohesively. It must be them. You get on a coach in Huaihua (West Bust Station), heading to a place you hope is Fenghuang (The ancient town of the Phoenix). You hope. You have no certainty. There is only one English speaking person in the coach (not even fluently) and that is actually you.

China is much more than Beijing, Shanghai & Xi’an. China is much more than being vast, overpopulated communist country, it is more than just “Made in China”, the Great Wall, and the Tiananmen Square. It deserves to be fully explored even at the cost of the constant feeling of confusion, disorientation & communication hurdles.

Fenghuang is situated on the western boundary of Hunan Province, is regarded as the most beautiful town in China. It is widely popular among Chinese but usually neglected by foreign tourists. The Tuo Jiang River is a life-force of the town. You can observe here women washing the clothes in its waters and men fishing with their nets. At the centre of the town there is two stepping stone bridge connecting the two sides of the river. Taking a boat is a good way to get closer to the local life so do not miss this chance. The ancient city is also a gathering place for Miao and Tujia ethnic minorities. They are easily recognized. The Miao women wear traditional blue garments sets, complex necklaces, bracelets, earnings and headdresses.

Fenghuang was built in 1704 and is still being kept in its original appearance despite the fact that more than 300 years passed. The sights of this riverside settlement, the rickety wooden houses on the stilts and narrow stone roads transport you back to the times of the Old China. This is a true gem that should be put on your list when travelling to China. Although, at nights the town transforms itself into the Chinese version of some sort of Las Vegas (due to illuminations), it does not stop to amaze anyone who sets foot here.

How to get to Fenghuang?

• Coach from Huaihua West Bus Station (1h). Coaches set off every 2h from 7:30 am to 4:30 pm approx. 40 RMB.

• Coach from Zhangjaijie Bus Station (near Zhangjaijie Train Station) There are only 2-3 coaches per day. The advance reservation is recommended. Ask your hotel for the assistance. Approx. 80 RMB.

The best time to visit?

Spring or Autumn. The period from April to June is the rainy season.

The top attractions of the Ancient Town:

Southern Great Wall; East Gate Tower; Hong Bridge; Yang Family Ancestral Hall; Gucheng Museum; Queen of Heaven Temple.

Accommodation:

You can stay in one of the many hotels in the Old Town. I stayed slightly outside in Yinji Inn = 2 nights in a double room with a common terrace with a view over the Ancient Town and Chinese breakfast (soup) = 476 RMB = approx. 60 EUR.

prices:

Since April 2016 the entrance fee to the Ancient Town (but including the entrance to 9 sites) of 148 RMB has been cancelled. You will only need to buy a ticket when visiting the scenic spots inside the town.

OQAATSUT - ONE DAY IN GREENLAND

GREENLAND - REMOTE & UNTOUCHED

This is one of the most remote and untouched places on the planet Earth. It is cold, unpredictable and so weird. Setting foot in Oqaatsut – a tiny settlement on the west coast of Greenland in the Disko Bay, gives you a feeling of awe and humility at the same time.

A few bright and colourful houses are scattered across this rocky terrain. You can describe this place through the sounds: the calls of seabirds, the crunch of the ice, and the roaring silence. Every element of the surrounding landscape sharpens your senses and magnify emotions. There is a bench on the small hill so sit down and listen.

OQAATSUT - (EXTRA)ORDINARY LIFE

Oqaatsut is a home to 38 residents (5 kids incl.) They all seem to be completely oblivious to the ideals of the western world. The life here is solely dependent on fishing and a bit of tourism. There is a single small grocery, a tiny restaurant, a hotel, a church and a schoolhouse in the village. The kids have old toys, bikes and a trampoline. There is no sewage system. There are no roads, no cars, just a few pathways.

The settlement is accessible from Ilulissat (the name of the town – Ilulissat literally translates to “Icebergs”) by boat or kayak in the summer or hiking 21 km path. In winter only by snowmobile or dog sledding. In fact kayaking among the impressive icebergs and exploring the artic nature is the main goal of the visit in Oqaatsut.

THE BENCH

But meeting a local family and sharing the meal - a bowl of the home made fish soup (and seconds) served in a dining/living room, decorated with family photos, balloons and the Greenlandic flags’ chains (the youngest member of the family got baptised the day before) and overlooking the surreal pieces of the ice emerging from the sea, and that single bench on the hill, is how you understand: this is their reality (so different than ours) and the life they have chosen. As odd it might sound, they are happy, genuinely. Are you?

LE MONT ST. MICHEL (FRANCE) - PRACTICAL TIPS & ADVICE

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT?

The fairytale complex of Mont Saint-Michel (MSM) can be visited all year round. However, from March to October the weather is in its best. In peak season – July and August expect to face a human traffic jam and I really mean it. MSM has only one street. If you would like to see MSM fully surrounded by water (which is a real treat) check the times of the tides before planning your visit. It is highly recommended to arrive in MSM late afternoon and stay overnight on the island or on a bit cheaper but still expensive mainland. Around 6 pm all the tour buses leave, and the crowds slowly disappear, until approx. 10 am of the very next day when the hordes of noisy and constantly hungry and thirsty tourists are back in town.

HOW TO GET THERE?

You can pick and choose. There is a wide array of transportation options:

• Fly to Rennes Airport (75 kms from MSM) or one of the Paris Airports (Roissy-Charles de Gaulle or Orly)

• Hop on a bus from Paris: (4h30)

• Take a train:

  a) From Paris Montparnasse to Villedieu les Poêles (2h50)and connecting bus (high comfort) to MSM (50min).

  b) From Paris Montparnasse TGV to Rennes (2h00). Connection by train TER from Rennes to Pontorson and after bus to MSM or direct bus from Rennes to MSM.

  c) From Paris Montparnasse TGV to Dol de Bretagne (2h40) and direct connection from Dol de Bretagne by bus to MSM

• Get into your car and simply drive. Parking lot is located on the mainland 2.5 km from MSM. Free shuttle buses drop visitors off 400 meters from the entrance gates.

DO & DON’TS

1. Climb the 350 steps (no elevator nor escalator is available) and visit MSM Abbey.

2. Cross the bay of MSM and get muddy. The walk across the Bay is only allowed in company of certified guides (Crossing is only available when the tide is low). Book the guide in advance. The bay is very dangerous and known for its quicksands. Each year, at least three people become statistics, often by miscalculating the time necessary to return to MSM from the neighbouring island (Ile de la Tremlaye). Do not become a statistic. The tide is said to come in as fast as a galloping horse and it really does. Depends on the route it takes 4-6 h to cross the Bay.

3. Do not be bonkers. La Mère Poulard and its culinary speciality: super fluffy omelette cooked on a wood fire is not even recommended by locals. La Mère Poulard omelette is currently rather famous for its shocking price: 34-38 EUR (and it is not made of golden eggs) rather than the exquisite taste.

PRICES:

a) Visiting the island is free but the entrance fee to Mont Saint-Michael Abbey is 10 EUR per person unless you are under 26 yrs (for european citizens) and under 18 yrs (for other nationalities). The youth has more pros. You pay nothing. Tip: Book your tickets online and enter the Abbey skipping the lines, save your time and do not let the awful queues and crowds to spoil your experience. Download your tickets to your phone as the internet connection is very weak in MSM. (use Tiqets app).

b) Accommodation (for 1 person) in MSM is outrageous (e.g. 1 night in Mercure Hotel on mainland = 151.10 EUR + 15 EUR breakfast option). The further you stay from MSM the cheaper it is. The price for two people is 5 EUR higher so take a companion. Book your accommodation a lot in advance too. Surprisngly, there is a plethora of people willing to pay even more.

c) Guided crossing of the Bay - approx. 10 – 15 EUR for adults and 5 - 6 EUR for kids.

d) Food and Drinks – depends on your appetite. Highly recommended La Sirene. From a friendly service, great food and low price everything was perfect. For a moment I was even wondering if am actually in France. The price range of la crêpe is 2.40 EUR – 10.10 EUR. Crepe with smoked salmon, grated cheese, mushrooms, cream, chives – 8.90 EUR; Breton cider (20 ml): 2.70 EUR. Ranked high is also Restaurant La Ferme Saint Michel located on the mainland, near the parking lot.

e) Transportation: Bus from MSM to Rennes - 15 EUR, Train & bus from Paris Montparnasse to MSM - 27 EUR. Simple rule: the earlier you book your train, the less you pay.

WEEKEND INSPIRATIONS - LE MONT ST. MICHEL (FRANCE)

HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE IN FRANCE?

The scent of free floating omnipresent arrogance and the sound of reverberating superior silence. This is how it feels to be in France [read: do not expect overfriendliness]. But there is one place in this country that has ability to transport you to a completely different dimension. Rising dramatically but proudly from the sea or towering over the sands unveiled by the receding tide, insanely looking Le Mont Saint Michel.

THE MEDIEVAL CITY ON THE ROCKS

This rocky island or rather a medieval city on the rock is located off the coast of Normandy. More often than not, this place is actually abominably jammed (stormed every year by approx. 2,5 millions visitors) and its medieval stone, wobbly alleys and pathways are covered with trinkets. But as dusk falls, Le Mont restores its magic, charm ad intimate vibe.

WHAT IS SO SPECIAL ABOUT LE MONT SAINT MICHEL?

What actually makes this place so phenomenal is the fact that the bay around Mont St-Michel has Europe’s highest tidal variations. There can be a difference of 15 meters (50 feet) between low and high tide. The Mont is only completely surrounded by the sea every month or two [in 2018 - 18 days].

There is also a “divine factor” associated with this place. Legend has it, the Archangel Michel appeared to St. Aubert telling him to build a church on Mont Saint-Michel and the 11th century Romanesque Abbey Church perched at the top of Mont, along with monastery, building and cloisters is now like a cherry on the cake.

To truly appreciate Le Mont St-Michel, come here off-season and stay overnight on the island in one of the hotels inside the walls or in the village outside the walls. (Warning: It is really not cheap but totally worth it). Do not be a tourist, do not tick off another box, take your time and contemplate this place.

WHY YOU SHOULD GET OFF THIS COUCH AND JUST TRAVEL?

Hassle-free, comfortable tropic holidays, beautiful beaches with soft golden sand, five-star luxury accommodation, the fortnight dreamscape you have been waiting for months. This is how society tells us we need to live and travel industry we need to spend our holidays. But traveling is much more than soaking up the sun, smiley face holidays' picks and ticking off boxes and saying you were there.

Traveling  is all about changing perspective, challenging yourself to do things you would never expect you are capable of doing, witnessing and soaking into different cultures, and ways of living and enjoying the magic of single moments and people who you meet on the way, people who  can even change who you are and make you go in a new direction. Traveling by its nature entails some sort of discomfort (mental challenge, stress, physical pain), sometimes it really damn hurts. Traveling and true living is not about touching a surface, it is peeling off another layers. It is not following the crowd and choosing what is well known, what is always easy and comfortable...

When you are traveling, every day matters. Do not just dream (everyone does that), simply act, do, go, grab moments because time is something you will never get back. Here they come, weekend inspirations. Two days isn’t a lot of time, but two days somewhere is better than no days anywhere. Even a weekend can be a fascinating adventure. Have you ever thought that you can just get on a train and go to Le Mont Saint Michel in Normandy (France), just for the weekend?  How does the famous "omelette de La Mère Poulard" taste  and why the hell there are so many people visiting this place?