METZ - THE MIRABELLE PLUM TOWN OF LORRAINE (FRANCE)

METZ - THE MIRABELLE PLUM TOWN OF LORRAINE (FRANCE)

With its picturesque riverside, cobblestone lanes, magnificent Gothic cathedral, and plentiful of green space and atmospheric little restaurants, cafés and bars which at the dusk, fill to the brim, it is impossible to question the omnipresent magic of this place. You can feel the beating heart of France in Metz more than anywhere else.

WEEKEND INSPIRATIONS - BORDEAUX & ST. EMILION (FRANCE)

WEEKEND INSPIRATIONS - BORDEAUX & ST. EMILION (FRANCE)

In the heart of the famous Bordeaux wine arae, there is a little charming medieval town filled with wine shops. The name of this town is Saint Emilion and there are approx. 70 wine shops and 270 houses here. That is quite an interesting ratio, don’t you think?

VERONA - THE CITY OF WINE & ROMANCE (ITALY)

CASTEL SAN PIETRO - THE BEST VIEWPOINT OF VERONA

As the sun slowly sink beneath the horizon, and the sky garnishes with fiery red, crimson and amber, the clearness of the atmosphere, the mellowness of light, and all-encompassing serenity become even more intense. Among the darted cypress trees at Castel San Pietro the dusk brings a completely new perspective.

The brilliance of the colours is brushing the young loving couples. They are sitting on the low wall gazing at each other with misty eyes. The young face is cradling into the curve of the velvetly soft neck, while the other is placing gentle kisses on the unshaven chin and cheeks of the lover.

While big flocks of people from all over the world who come to the city to live a bit of fantasy and romance, crowd around the Juliet’s balcony (Casa di Giulietta) there is a real love and romance happening here and just in front of your eyes.

Castel San Pietro is a corner of peace and quiet with spectacular views of Verona just a few steps from the city centre. You can reach San Pietro hill by car, funicular (2 EUR return ticket) or through a stairway situated just right in front of Ponte Pietra. This is a very special place in Verona. Come here at sunset and live your own romance.

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PIAZZA DELLE ERBE - THE LIVELY HEART OF VERONA

The city of Verona was made famous by Shakespeare's star-crossed lovers. Many come here to rub Juliet's bronze breast, hoping to get lucky in love, but end up falling not for a person but smitten with love for this admittedly romantic city.

From the city's lively heart, Piazza delle Erbe, and the Castelvecchio (Old Castle) with its fortified bridge to the beautiful Cathedral of Verona and San Zeno Church, Verona simply amazes. Due to impressive historic buildings and major role in the days of Roman Empire, Verona is quite often reffered as a 'little Rome' and one cannot argue. It has its charm.

Piazza delle Erbe is probably the most bustling square in Verona. People have gathered here since Roman times, when this was a forum. Today, everyday there is a small street market held here. You can buy all kinds of stuff, (from the high value down to chinese plastic trinkets to fresh fruits and herbs). In the eveinings young Veronans fill the bars and enjoy the refreshing aperitivo and snacks. You know what they say? When in Rome, do like Romans do, so grab a glass of aperol spritz in one of the many bars and add some extra joy to the moment in Verona.

Pss. Hungry? Looing for non-touristy local cusine experience? Head to Locanda degli Scaligeri & Il Punto Rosa Hosteria.

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a night at the OPERA - arena di verona

Accommodating 20,000 - Arena di Verona - is the natural historic backdrop for the spectacular musical productions. The well-preserved amphitheater is the third largest in Roman world. There is a summer opera festival place held in Verona every year. The festival that cannot be missed.

Whether you are an opera lover or not, you should experience an unique opera tradition in Italy. La Traviata, Carmen, Aida? Performances usually begin at sundown in the Verona Arena, and when the opera begings the audience lights up the night with small candles.

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VINITALY IN VERONA

If Venice has Prosecco, and Rome has Frascati, then Verona has it all and even more. Verona is a host of the world’s largest and prestgious wine expo - Vinitaly. It takes place every April and features wines and vineyards from all corners of the country Wine, food, music & enterainment, the magic of the city itself, what more you could ask for?

A QUICK TRAVEL GUIDE TO PHILIPPINES (MANILA/CEBU/ IFUGAO RICE TERRACES)

THE EMERALD RICE TERRACES OF IFUGAO (ifugao tribe)

It was just a short walk from the Rice Homestay in Banaue to the city centre of the town. Dozens of pairs of eyes were looking at me with curiosity. Just before I passed a building of the Immaculate Conception School, I came across a group of Filipno kids, aged 5-11. On the piece of low wall in front of the house, they were doing their school homework. They welcomed me with enthusiastic “Hello”. I could not help but to stop and observe them for a while. With each step I was falling for the smoky and strange atmosphere of this town. I was soaking up the jolly chats and laughters of the kids, the rumble of the graffiti splashed jeepneys, the healing calmness streching and filling the green space. I could not possibly hear any of that on the other Philippines’ islands with such an intensity as in Banaue - Ifugao (Luzon).

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Located at the foot of Cordillera mountain range, the Ifugao Rice Terraces (including more than 48 rice terrace clusters) are well known for its striking beauty. It is believed that the rice terraces have been carved mainly by hand the Ifugaos between 1,000 to 2,000 years ago. Thr Ifugao people were not reached out by Spanish and American colonizers because of the difficult terrains they settled in, therefore managed to retain their local traditions and culture.

They are famous for their their woodcarving art (carved bulol - sacred wood rice guardian figures is Philippino icon) and textiles and of course growing the best rice in the whole Philippines. Interestingly, the rice they plant and harvest is only for their own consumption, not for sale.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT PHILIPPINES’ RICE TERRACES?

April to May is probably the best time to visit the Ifugao Rice Terraces (at their greenest). June is the harvest time. At the end of the rice growing season, the Punnuk ritual takes place. All the villagers dress in their traditional clothing and perform rituals.

HOW TO GET TO IFUGAO RICE TERRACES?

Banaue is directly accessible from Manila. Jump on to the night Coda Lines bus at HM Transport Bus Terminal in Quezon City, Manila and arrive to Banaue (Tourist Information Centre) very early morning after approx. 9-10 hours ride. The bus has A/C, toilet and entartainment on board. You can check the timetable and book your tickets online. The other bus company that operates on this route is Ohayami. From the reserach I performed, Coda Lines seems to be a bit better though.

TIP: The bus is a freezer on wheels. Wear warm.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN IFUGAO RICE TERRACES?

You can either organize your time in Ifugao booking a trip/tour guide in Tourist Information Centre or via your accommodation. I have chosen the latter.

Examples of offered packages and tours:

  • Tour Package A (1 day tour - Banaue Main Viewpoint and Batad (1 day guide fee, car transport, heritage fee and environmental fee) 3700 PHP

  • Tour Package B (2 days - Batad and Tappiyah Falls, Banaue View Point, Hapao Hot Springs) 8500 PHP for 4-8 guests; 6800 PHP for 1-3 guests

  • Tour Package C (2 days - Banaue, Batad and Sagada) 9200 PHP for 2-5 people.

  • The Heritage Trek (Pula - Cambulo - Batad - Bangaan) - 3 or 2 days

  • The Banaue Viewpoint Trek (4 hours)

  • Bangaan Rice Terreces & Village Tour

  • Batad Full Day Guided Tour (Village, Rice Terraces, Tappiyah Falls)

  • Tam-an - Poitan Village Walk

  • Hapao Rice Terraces Tour

  • Sagada Tour (full day)

Pss. Sagada is famous for its hanging coffins and very popular among the tourists.

WHERE TO STAY IN IFUGAO?

Banaue is a cultural and tourist centre of Ifugao so you will find here many sleeping options. It is pretty basic but you do not come here for a luxurious accommodation, do you?

Rice Homestay - slightly outside of the city and very quiet, is where I stayed myself.

Many tourists decide to stay in a village of Batad to wake up among the lushy rice terraces. Note, it is quite a hike to reach out the accommodation but if you do not mind the inconvenience, that might be the option for you.

Pss. It might not be the most economical option. The prices (accommodation & food) in Batad are substantially higher than in Banaue.

VISITING CEBU ISLAND - MUST SEE & DO LIST

Cebu Island is on the itinerary of most of the tourists traveling to Philippines: countless white-sand beaches, diving paradise, spectatcular waterfalls. The Cebu City in itself is a bustling metropolis. The traffic jam here is not less than the one in Manila. You better stay outside of the city.

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  • Visit Basilica Minore del Santo Nino & Magellan's Cross - Home of the oldest religious relict in the whole Philippines, an image of the infant Holy Jesus. It dates back to Magellan's time.

  • Walk through Carbon Market - Oldest and largest vibrant farmers markets in the Cebu City. Be aware of pickpockets though.

  • Take part in Sinulog Festival - Celebrated on the 3rd Sunday of January. The biggest and most popular festival in Philippines.

  • Try Lechon - the signature Filipino delicacy - spit-roasted suckling pig) at Rico’s Lechon or House of Lechon

  • Go to Malapascua Island - famous for world class diving. You catch a glimpse of thresher sharks. It is a perfect spot for a beach escape too. Recommended diving companies: Divelink Cebu, Evolution Diving, Exotic Divers, Thresher Shark Divers, Fish Buddies.

  • Go Canyoning in Kawasan Falls - It is very popular spot so you better head there very early morning. The time filled with loads of fun guaranteed. You cannot leave this place dry.

  • Swim with the whale sharks of Oslob - This activity is certainly one of the most popular things to do on the Cebu Island. You line up on the beach with many other tourists willing to pay approx. 1000 PHP to get closer to huge whale sharks. Personally, not the experience I would be seeking myself.

  • Go on the Street Food Tour with Backstreet Academy - Experience local dishes that are truly off the beaten track walking through the vibrant and colourful streets of Cebu and eating your way through the Carbon,  Pasil and Colon Streets. My absolute favourites were sweet sausage longganisa and steamed siomai dumplings serves with rice wrapped in banana leaves. Pss. Do not forget to grab refreshing Halo-Halo (frozen delicious thing).

  • Eat in Jollybee - the most famous local fast food chain in Philippines. That is why McDonald is struggling in Philippines.

Have you visited Philippines yourself or perhaps you are the local? Comment and recommend your favourite places to check out and things to experience in Cebu, Manila and Ifugao.

SLIGHTLY OFF THE BEATEN TRACK - VENICE (ITALY)

MUSICA A PALAZZO: OPERA IN VENICE

Walking into the magnificent 17th century baroque Palazzo Barbagio Minotto through the Louis XIV style doors, decorated with vine leaf shape bronze handles and stepping onto the flooring inlaid with dive and other finest wood is like diving into the past. The dim candle light enhances the exquisite indoor and all the carefully selected furnishings.

The wonderful selection of costumes inspired by the 18th century style, worn by the main characters appearing and vanishing at every act, complement the setting.  The is a home to the Musica a Palazzo, one of the most fascinating places in Venice, offering a completely new way of experiencing the opera.

Every act of the opera is set in a different hall of the palace and the audience (approx. 50 people). The boundaries between singers, the instrumentalists and the audience are completely blurred, pulling them into the act and letting them feel the power and passion of the drama from within.

I TRE MERCANTI : PROBABLY THE BEST TIRAMISU IN VENICE

The origins of Italy’s iconic dessert started in the kitchens in historical gorgeous town of Treviso, located northwest of Venice. Tiramisu means literally “pick me up”/”pull me up”. It is said that the famous cake or cup layered with mascarpone, sponge cake, savoiardi (also known as ladyfingers) drizzled with espresso and dusted with cocoa powder was actually used as natural viagra and served in the past to reinvigorate exhausted clients inside brothels of Treviso. How much truth is in it?

We cannot argue with one. This famous little shop in Venice makes the most delicious tiramisu in town. Indulge yourself an try pistachio or classic coffee flavour.

HOW YOU CAN START TRAVELING THE WORLD?

start traveling from making a decision now

Simply close your eyes, and listen to your inner voice. Your inner voice. If you hear any  other voices, that other people do not, it is worrisome... Pick your dream destination. Somehow deep down there you already know where you want to go, don't you?  Sound oversimplified? Life is damn simple. Only people make it complicated.

Listen! Book your flight tickets today. If you wait till tomorrow, your brain will find an excuse not to go on the adventure of your lifetime.

Remember as follows:

Desires shall be satisified immediately, especially the ones including adventures, overnight flights with free drinks, hot flight attendants and pilots, cramped toilets and exotic destinations.

HOW NOT TO LET FEAR STOP YOU FROM TRAVELING?

Feeling fear is human. This might include diarrhoea, abdominal pains, stress overwhelming your body and the feeling of confusion and disorientation. But you know what? It is damn good. You are a human being, and you have a right to fear and piss/shit your pants or sometimes do both simultaneously. Do not feel ashamed of it. Feel ashamed when the fear stops you from living and experiencing.

HOW TO TRAVEL ALONE? FEMALE SOLO TRAVELING

I am a female solo traveler who visited over 34 countries and I still plan next trips. Am I fearless? I do suffer from stress and rarely panic attacks. One of my last trips included trekkig in the restricted district of Nepal at the border of Tibet - Upper Mustang. Only once I booked flights, I actually realized that this entails spending a few days in complete isolation from the whole world (no wifi, no phone signal) in Himalayas meeting just a handful of people on the route. I was completely alone accompanied by a Sherpa (male) guide as you are not allowed to enter the area otherwise, carrying a 12-14 kg backpack. There are no hotels in this area. The accommodation was poor and unheated despite the fact that in the night the temperature was reaching -11° C. It was not easy. I also cryed half of my flight from Doha (Qatar) to Kathamndu (Nepal) due to extreme stress but smiled the whole way back home swelled with pride and full of dozens of unique memories that will cherish forever. Face your fears, fight them and conquer. The only tip for female solo travelers is: just be smart. It is enough.

On a side note, do you think I would go anywhere if I waited for a companion? It is your life so live your dream. Do not wait for friends. They are busy with their own lives and dreams. What if your wife/husband/girlfriend/boyfriend does not want to go? The studies show that couples who travel together have better, more fulfilling sex lives in general. But if a partner does not want to go? His/Her loss. Go on your own. Before you got married/together, you had seperate lives. Remember? There is nothing wrong if once in a while you spend a few days apart following your own dreams. Also, absence makes the heart grow fonder. Travel to unexplored lands. Meet and talk to locals. It is all pretty scary. I have been there but I guarantee you - totally worth it.

HOW TO GO TO A BAR ALONE IN CHINA?

  • In Shanghai (China) in the legendary Peace Hotel Old Jazz Bar in October 2015, I ordered a glass of wine at sat at the bar. Have you ever gone to a bar alone (in China)? Do you know how awkward it feels especially for a highly introvertic person?  This was my last day in China before my departure back home. I was backpacking solo for over two weeks. I actually just finished a 22h 33 m train ride from Zhangjiajie to Shanghai.

Despite this fact, wearing a Nike t-shirt “Just do it” - the only clean piece of clothing that I had, I did not want to miss the opportunity. The Old Jazz Band is made of 6 musicians and is the oldest jazz band in the world. Their average age is 82. Even Ronald Reagan was once among their audience.

Five minutes later, I was already talking with a German (Lufthansa) pilot who turned out to be piloting the airplane I was returning home the next day. How often do you meet a pilot/passenger of your airplane in a 24 million city? How dope is that?

On a side note, have I mentioned that I had been celebrating my birthday the following day? Not only by changing the time zones extended my birthday which lasted 32 h instead of regular 24 h, and I was invited to a pilot’s cabin, but my new friend sent me a  bottle of champagne and roses. Some men just make promises, the others simply take you up to the sky, literally. So girl, next time ditch your friends and go to a bar alone!

TRAVELING ALONE IN GEORGIA?

  • After a sleepless night that spent at the Atatürk Airport in Istanbul (Turkey) as my flight was scheduled for a very early morning, landed in the country (Georgia - Tbilisi) that loves you and where the names of the streets make absolutely no sense. Have you ever seen Georgian scripts?

Worth to note, despite their friendliness, Georgians do not have a fluent command of English. My luck was that could understand a bit of Russian. My bad luck was that I have a very bad sense of direction (the names of streets in Georgian were not helping though) and did not have any data on my mobile so could use GPS. (The temperature was reaching 35 ° C)

In this case, had no alternative but to ask for assistance a man approx. 70 yrs old of age (I did the swift due risk assessment and followed my female intuition). The man agreed to take me to my hostel but he actually took me first to his home, where he and his wife, opened doors to their bedroom (with a king size bed) and offered me to be their guest.

MEET more FANTASTIC PEOPLE WHEN TRAVELING SOLO

  • In Turkey during a boarding of the Atlas Jet flight from Istanbul to Izmir, a man who had a seat allocated next to mine wanted to pass and take his seat.

     - “Türkçe bilmiyorum” (I do not know Turkish) -  I said

    - “Funny that you can say it in Turkish actually”  - He replied

    The flight lasted approx. 50 minutes, enough to realise that met an exceptional wise and kind human being of a Turkish origin, married to Chinese and living in Toronto (Canada) with a daughter of my age and a dog named Meatball.

    Guess who picked me up from the airport in Toronto two years later and took for dinner to the best Chinese restaurant & showed me around the city? Guess who was emailing me every few months sharing a piece of his life?

    18th of Sep 2018 Bedi passed away. He caught a very aggressive type of lymphoma cancer.

    Our time in this world is limited but what we can do in that time, is not. It is amazing that one travel can change so much, sometimes it can change everything.

But you have kids? traveling with kids

Now it is hight time to be honest. If you have small kids, you are f*****. I really mean it. But you can still choose to show them the real world. Travel with kids. Do not postpone their education and do not put off your dreams.

Ok. But you will say, what about money? You are an adult. You have choices in your life. Choose wisely what you spend your money on.  Invest in experiences (not things) and people that matter. Worried about their safety? I guarantee you, those little noisy creatures will be fine. Worry more about yourself.

If you have already endured years of torment and abuse of your sweet little kids, and all those long  days filled with dirty diapers, sleepless nights are over & your offspring is now eligible to work under the law of you country, that is actually very good news. Now they can pay for their own adventures and yours.

 

DISCOVER THE ARAB CULTURE IN DUBAI (UNITED ARAB EMIRATES)

find out more about traditional emirati culture

In the ambiance of a beautiful restored wind tower house courtyard, located in the historic Al Fahidi neighbourhood of Dubai, the guests resting on the beduin style pillows scattered around a table decorated with a selection of traditional Emirati dishes featuring a divine desert Ligmati “small bites", were sipping cups of freshly brewed arabic coffee and nibbling the middle east delicacies. The strong smell of cardamon & saffron mixed with a delicate sweetness of dates was floating in the air.

Nasif was giving his vigorous speech, cracking a joke after a joke. He was wearing an angle lenght, loosely fitting white robe. The galactic empire accessory - Yoda head cufflinks were adding an imperial character to his look. His head was covered with a white scarf and a piece of black cord.

Why you make your women wear black?! To me black is hot. You torture your women!

This question brought a wide feisty grin to Nasif’s face. His nimble and witty reply made everyone roar with laughter:

Our women torture us inside the houses, we torture them outside.

Men and women in the UAE wear the same type of clothes. White is reserved for men & black for women. Have you ever been wondering who picked the colours? & Why the heck anyone living in the Middle East scorching hot deser would wear black? & Why it needs to be a woman?

In the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (aka SMCCU) you can enjoy traditional Emirati cuisine & conversations. SMCCU offers guided walking tours in the neighbourhood area & cultural meals. Their motto is “Open Doors, Open Minds” . Your questions no matter how sensitive are welcome and anwered (in a very frothy way). So come, eat, laught and learn (Tip for gluttons: it is all what you can eat option and what you cannot eat you can take with you). Advance booking is required.

Did you know? Men in the UAE can have up to four wives. Remember “can” in English means it is optional. In practise, one wife is enough for most of them. Emirati are strogly discouraged from marrying non-nationals and a young man receives 19 000 USD from the mariage fund if he marries a national. (Yes, this is sad news for many Non-Emirati women). It is estimated that 86% of population in the UAE is Expacts and only 14% is Emiratis.

IT IS high TIME FOR SHOPPING IN DUBAI

Within a short distance from SMCCU, at the textile souq, you can inulge a shopping passion and give yourself along with a content of your wallet, to the Emirati merchants. They already know your favourite colour and are very desperate to make sure you do not come back home with some empty space in your suitcase. So be aware.

You can also board an abra boat (costs 1 AED) & take a short ride across the Dubai Creek to visit the gold & spice souqs. Tip for men: If you travel with a woman, the safest place for your wallet and credit card in Dubai, is a beach. Stay there, at least sun is for free.

BACKING THE WRONG CAMEL - CAMEL RACES IN THE UAE

To emerge yourself deeper in the local culture, in located 0.5h drive from the city - Al Marmoon Camel Racetrack, you can sit down in the bleachers & watch the traditional Emirati sport - camel races. The racing season in the UAE runs between October and April. The most popular days are Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. This is an exceptional opportunity only a few places in the world have to offer. Where else you can lose (your) fortune backing the wrong camel? Wake up at sunrise (the races start quite early approx. 7 am) and embrace a glorious day in Dubai.

PS. Still wondering why in the Middle East women not men wear black? Me too. At SMCCU they were trying to convince me that black does not actually absorb all the light and does not make you feel any warmer… Maybe let’s swap the colours boys?

FOR THE DREAMERS - DUBAI (UNITED ARAB EMIRATES)

THE SKY IS THE LIMIT?

Not in the UAE. In the UAE this would be considered as a “lack of ambition”. Why only aim for the sky? This is a place of endless possibilities, future, splendour, extravagance (seasoned with drops of the authentic arab culture & tradition). Dubai has it all: futuristic appeal, artificial palm shaped islands, indoors ski slopes, penguins residing in the shopping mall, the “green” highway passing through the sand dunes.

Unconventional combinations contradicting the laws of nature & norms. This is a playground for the bold dreamers, beautiful minds & madmen. You will be dazzled by the countless attractions Dubai has to offer.

LA PERLE BY DRAGONE - FOR THE DREAMERS

Through performers flying the air in La Perle by Dragone in Al Habtoor City - state of the art theatre (opened on 31th August 2017), divers, acrobats to motocylists spinning in the suspended metallic sphere you are transported into an eccentric world of magic. During this 90 minutes fairly tale show all your senses are constatntly molested by plenty of the spectatcular stunts. There is no time for intermission. The show must go on.

DREAM SKYDIVE IN DUBAI

Franco Dragone production awakens the dormant desires and all you want to do is to feel wind gushing through your hair jumping out of a plane at 10 000 feet. You can do it in Dubai too. SkyDive Dubai offers the skydive experience & thrill of freefall at over 120 miles per hour either over the iconic Palm Jumeirah Island or the desert dunes.

The moment you leap out, there is no fear. There is no fear as you do not even realize that your body along with another body attached to it, has already left the aircraft. It is not about the sensation as such (you feel like a vaccum cleaner tube is sucking your face) but the wild joy you get when you combat your oppenent and actually survive the whole battle without any scratch.

Now, is there any point to climb the highest building in the world - Burj Khalifa? No. But you cannot leave Dubai without seeing the world-famous largest dancing fountain.

Contrary to the common belief, Dubai it is not about monetary wealth thought needless to say this is a city where the police cars to keep up with the crims, were turned to Lamborghinis, Ferraris & Bentleys & gold to go ATM  are every nook and cranny. Dubai it is all about the state of mind: open, bold & untamed dreams followed by the actions.

What is your dream?

WEEKEND INSPIRATIONS - LYON - THE CITY OF LIGHTS (FRANCE)

Each year around 8th December artists and approx. 3 million of visitors from all over the world come to Lyon – the capital city of french cuisine and for our nights the city lights up and transforms into a magical show where the historic buildings, streets, squares and parks are the background of the spectacular display of lights and colours.

The festival of lights has been an integral part of the city since 1852 when the residents of Lyon placed candles in coloured glasses on their window sills to celebrate the installation of a statue of the Virgin Mary on the Fourvière Hill. Even today, the tradition is still cultivated but the city with its appox. 20 million EUR budget for the La Fête and the assistance of the best world class artists, film-makers, designers, plastic artists and lighting technicians, makes it a memorable fest for the eyes and some sort of an extra-terrestrial fairy tale experience worth awaiting the remaining 361 days.

When in Lyon, not only spoil your eyes with the sights but indulge yourself and taste the traditional Lyonnais cuisine and visit one of its “bouchons”. Among the more distinctive Lyonnais specialties are “Andouillettes” (a type of sausage made from tripe), “Coq au vin,” “foie gras,” and “Lyonnaise potatoes” (pan-fried sliced potatoes). Grand Café des Negotiants – a brasserie and dessert place with rich and colourful décor and Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse (AOC) should be definitely added to your must-see places.

THE UPPER MUSTANG TREK - TREKKING IN THE LAST FORBIDDEN KINGDOM (NEPAL)

THE UPPER MUSTANG TREK IN NEPAL

Every year Nepal attracts more than 200,000 trekkers. Only approximately 4,300 out of them choose to discover the “Upper Mustang” region – a treeless and barren last bastion of Tibetan culture. Until 1950 the area of Mustang was actually a separate Kingdom. This place was opened to non-Nepali travels only in 1991, but still even today the entry to the Upper Mustang is highly limited.

The trekking in the Upper Mustang is completely different than trekking in other parts of the Nepal. It is a real privilege, the privilege that comes with a price (a dear price). Mustang trek is some kind of similar to the trekking in Tibet. Obtaining the Trekking Permit to the Upper Mustang enables you to experience a semi-arid desert, admire colourful rock formations and snow-capped peaks but mostly get closer to the rich culture of the local people. You will cross beautiful valleys and small town like Jomsom, Kagbeni.

A monk student from the Red Monastery in Kagbeni in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

A monk student from the Red Monastery in Kagbeni in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

A young girl working in a restaurant near Choser Cave in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

A young girl working in a restaurant near Choser Cave in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

THE UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING COSTS

  • Trekkers need obtain a costly Trekking Permit = 500 USD valid for 10 days /50 USD for any extra day/person.

  • On top of this, as you enter Annapurna restricted area, you are also required to get the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) Permit = 30 USD/person.

  • You must be accompanied by a professional tour guide/porter (of an authorized travel agency of Nepal) = approx. 1220 USD/person/ 10 days (including accommodation, food, guide services)

  • Minimum of 2 trekkers is mandatory. Individual trekkers are not allowed in the region.

  • Pokhara - Jomsom - Pokhara Flight = 220 USD/person

  • Pokhara - Kathamndu Flight Cost = 110 USD/person

Personally, I trusted Global Holiday Adventures Pvt. Ltd. and let them sort out the organization of my trek. They offer Jeep Adventure and Trekking in the Upper Mustang. The price for my package cost me approx. 2050 USD (including flights, jeep ride, accommodation, food etc.)

example: THE UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ITINERARY:

Day 1 - Fly/Drive (by bus) to Pokhara from Kathamndu

Day 2 - Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom (2720m) and trek to Kagbeni (2800m) 3-4h

Day 3 - Trek from Kagbeni to Chele (3000m) 5-6h

Day 4 - Trek from Chele to Ghiling (3570m) 6-7h via Chuksi Cave

Day 5 - Trek from Ghiling to Drakmar (3450m) 5-6h

Day 6 - Trek from Drakmar to Lo-Manthang (3840m) 7-8h via Ghar Gompa and Marang-La Pass

Day 7 - Explore Lo-Manthang “The Wall City” (Visit 3 monasteries (Jampa Gompa, Chodey Gompa and Thubchen Gompa)

Day 8 - Visit Choser Cave and Monasteries by horse riding and back to Lo Manthang

Day 9 - Drive back to Jomsom from Lo Manthang by Local Jeep

Day 10 - Fly to Pokhara

THE RED MONASTERY IN KAGBENI

Entering Kagbeni – a unique medieval village, you are steeping into this undisturbed Tibetan Buddhist world with ancient monasteries and traditional villages. This is a gataway to the Upper Mustang.

The Red Monastery that was built in 1429 is the most famous landmark here (a small entrance fee – 200 NRP – approx. 2 USD applies). You can wander through the cobbled streets and watch the locals do their chores, kids coming back from school and little monks running around and playing with “syringe guns” (filled with water).

A young girl helping in the Red Monastery in Kagbeni in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

A young girl helping in the Red Monastery in Kagbeni in the Upper Mustang, Nepal.

Monk students at the Red Monastery in Kagbeni, in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

Monk students at the Red Monastery in Kagbeni, in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

What to expect in the Upper Mustang?

The maximum point reached during the trek is approx. 4000 meters but the conditions are quite difficult. Mustang is very cold in autumn and winter and is constantly windy and dusty (really dusty) regardless of the season. Therefore most of the tourist choose to discover this region by a jeep or motorbike and this is a quite an off road experience must say with the difference that you actually drive on the road. At some points you might feel like driving on the edge of life and death.

Pss. When trekking in the Upper Mustang, take with you an extra warm sleeping bag, trekking sticks, some toiletries, Diamox (high attitude sickness preventative medicine) and some of your favourite snacks (e.g. chocolate). There is a very limited offer of the “western” snacks that you can buy in the guest houses (they will not be cheap too) but might want to check the “expiration” date before you finalize the purchase. Some of the “Snickers” can be sold despite the fact that “best before” date passed two years ago.

But do not worry. There is no problem with food. Your guide will sort it out for you. It is delicious. Make sure you try some Tibetan bread, Tibetan noodles but under no circumstances try any meat dishes here unless you want to get seriously sick. You become a temporary vegetarian, if you want it or not. The Upper Mustang is also very famous for delicious, fresh, and juicy organic apples. Do not forget to try the apple pancakes in Jomsom. I loved the ginger honey tea when trekking in the Upper Mustang, it kept me warm.

Kids from the village Ghami in the Upper Mustang, Nepal. The kids are eating sweet rice.

Kids from the village Ghami in the Upper Mustang, Nepal. The kids are eating sweet rice.

Kids from Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

Kids from Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT THE UPPER MUSTANG?

The Upper Mustang is most recommended to be visited in spring or summer season (May – August). I made a mistake heading there at the beginning of November with -11 C already in the night.

There is no heating in the guest houses as such.

Reason?

Simple.

No Trees = No Wood = No Heating = Freezing to Death.

Ok. I might exaggerated things a bit. But even the residents and monks of Lo-Manthang leave the capital to avoid the freezing temperature and snow in winter. However, the locals always make sure that there is at least some dry yak poo to boil water for tea or make dinner. For food lovers: you will not die here from hunger. The food is really divine.

Daily life in the centre of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

Daily life in the centre of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

The Walled City of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

The Walled City of Lo Manthang in the Upper Mustang in Nepal.

what to see and do in LO-MANTHANG - THE WALLED CITY?

The capital of the Upper Mustang is the walled city of Lo-Manthang. Monasteries are a vital part of daily life in this place. In Lo-Manthang there are 3 old dauntlessly beautiful monasteries and I really mean it. You need to pay the entrance fee of 1000 NRP (approx. 10 USD).

The most celebrated and highly popular festival in the region called Tiji Festival is a three day event characterized by the dancing of monks to commemorate the incarnation of Buddha. Many people come to Lo-Manthang just to observe the Tiji celebrations.

There are some half-days tours organized outside of the Lo-Manthand where you can visit Choser Cave and nearby Monasteries. You can either go by jeep or horse riding. I do recommend the latter. You pay for yourself and your guide.

The “city” is focused much on the “wealthy tourists” that come to the Upper Mustang therefore, you can even come across shops, especially with local paintings and craft, that offer payment by credit card.